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Nine Gallon Buckets
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 865
votes
Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
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5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Energy Crisis S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion Zion (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 29,506 total · 128/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Feb 26, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are two sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c and an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.
P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).
P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! The climbing eases after a few bolts, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).
Note: the book describes an intermediate anchor between the existing 2, but is it now just a single bolt.
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