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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,082 total, 133/month
Shared By: ScottH on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are three sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c, and the third after an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.

P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).

P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! After passing an intermediate anchor the difficulty of the climbing eases, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).

Protection

Bolts.
Patrick, no need for a 70. A 60m rope works just fine. Nov 14, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10c
Really enjoyed the variety of holds on this route: huecos, crimps, pulls, underclings, the works. If you have a 70m rope, and you should, go to the top anchors. I found the crux just after the first anchors. Seemed a little soft for 10c on the second pitch. Nov 13, 2017
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
  5.10c
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
  5.10c
A local was explaining to me how the start has changed over the years: broken holds, eroding base. If in doubt stick clip it, but honestly the hardest move is two feet off the ground so it's not bad to boulder it. Harder for short people. 10a off the ground, then 5.8 to the first anchors and 5.10 above. Definitely go to the last anchor, what a fantastic route! Really super fun climbing! Mar 20, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10-
A veritable bolt ladder with a low first bolt makes this a comfortable route for anyone climbing at this grade. Jun 21, 2015
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
Instead of going left to knob and undercling it is possible to go straight up at crux on crimps. I found this to be easier. Apr 19, 2015
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
solid smith rock 5.10, good route May 12, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Don't know about the debate on stick clipping, but if you are climbing at smith rock, then you know that you are climbing at smith rock. Climb to the bolt, clip it and move on. Even if it's 5.9 to the first bolt, the route is 10c so heads up... Look at the tags, climbing is dangerous. Whoops Aug 16, 2012
Mattttt  
I was climbing this route two weeks ago and pulled off a fist sized rock when I tried to use an obvious undercling near the crux. Thankfully nobody was directly below me.

A few days before I also saw someone pull off two decent sized rocks on the zebra wall.

I thought this was a really good reminder that even the most climbed areas at smith are susceptible to rockfall.

And yet out of the 15+ other people at the wall, no one was using a helmet. May 29, 2012
Eric Olson
Minneapolis, MN
Eric Olson   Minneapolis, MN
If you are climbing to the top anchors (3rd set), two notes: 1) a 60 meter rope is *just* enough to lower a climber; and 2) I would *not* recommend cleaning the whole route while lowering from the top anchors - this will result in a HUGE swing upon unclipping the lowest draw. We cleaned to the first set of anchors on lowering, then re-climbed the lower part to clean up to there. Jul 13, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
The first move of this route is the hardest, imho- after you reach the first hueco, its positive, but not over before the first bolt.

The upper crux is balancy and fun and well protected. May 23, 2010
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
I also agree with Peter. Stick clip the first bolt as the hardest bit is getting off the ground and you really don't want to blow the opening moves. And, if you can climb 5.10 you MUST do the upper section. After grunting through the sidepull/undercling crux the climbing eases considerably, finishing on some of the coolest honeycomb pockets you will ever have the pleasure of sinking your meathooks into. Mar 25, 2009
Seems like Peters comment could be said about almost every route I got on at Smith. An alternative to the stick clip is wait until you are a solid 5.10+ climber then get on it. I watched a kid fall above the first or second bolt and miss the ground by two feet. Not sure why he came so close but it is a dangerous game and you need to be careful. Sep 22, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
I think a comment needs to be made regarding the opening sequence of this route. Yesterday I was once again a witness to a sketchy and scary fall that occurred before the first bolt had been clipped.

The first 15 feet of this climb are fairly serious and poorly protected. Just because you can climb 5.9 does not mean that you will be comfortable getting to the first bolt. A stick-clip is highly recommended if you aren't totally solid and confident. This is bolted like an old-school climb, and if you've climbed 5.9s elsewhere you're probably going to be in for a surprise.

Many people will find this aggravating and frustrating, but do yourself (and your ankles) a favor by taking some precaution here. Sep 22, 2008
Agree with all of the above statements. If you can climb to the first bolt you might as well take it to the third anchor because even if you fall up high you will not hit the ground Jun 11, 2008
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
 
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
 
Great Route, Even after the crux when it eases up, it is still blast. Dec 19, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.10c
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.10c
You can do both "pitches" easily on a 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot on the belayer end, or better yet, have your belayer tie in to the rope. Jun 2, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Good clean fun. Link everything in one great 35m pitch. Getting to the first bolt is balancy and committing, so be careful. Apr 18, 2007