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Elevation: 2,932 ft
GPS: 44.37053, -121.14363
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Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
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Description Suggest change

This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. Its aesthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. Its most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.

Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth. This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.

Getting There Suggest change

To approach you can take the hiking trail in either direction once you cross the bridge. Heading north provides a steeper but shorter approach. The seldom taken southward, scenic approach is much further but has less elevation gain and takes you all the way around the formation. Many approach by hiking past the main dihedrals, doing the scramble over asterik pass, and continuing on climbing trails heading north. Routes are listed clockwise from right side of the west face.

To descend sramble down or take a short rappel from summit back to SE to a ledge and huge boulder.  From here there are a few options:

1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the nose boulder to the talus below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It. 

2. Do a short single rope rap back to the cave. Then, take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).

3. Rap the pioneer route. This is not recommended but possible with a single 60m. This requires difficult rope pulling, tensioning to reach anchors, and annoying all the other parties inevitably behind you. Reserve for emergencies.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Monkey Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
 32
West Face (Aid)
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
 5
East Face
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 385
Pioneer Route
Trad, Sport, Aid 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
 8
Northwest Passage (Aid)
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
West Face Variation Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
 180
West Face Variation
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 153
Monkey Off My Back
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 135
Monkey Space
Sport 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Rising Expectations
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 31
Astro Monkey
Trad 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Moving in Stereo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
The Northwest Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 14
Spank the Monkey
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
East Face Start
Trad
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 14
The Backbone
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face (Aid)
 32
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
East Face
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Pioneer Route
 385
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 5 pitches
Northwest Passage (Aid)
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
West Face Variation Direct
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
West Face Variation
 180
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Monkey Off My Back
 153
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Monkey Space
 135
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Rising Expectations
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Astro Monkey
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
Moving in Stereo
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Northwest Corner
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Spank the Monkey
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
East Face Start
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
The Backbone
 14
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Monkey Face »

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