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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde February 10, 2002
Page Views: 17,720 total · 174/month
Shared By: Laurel Fan on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face. Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up. This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder.

Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.


sport, 8 bolts


Adam Volwiler
Adam Volwiler  
The West Face variation linked up with this as a final pitch is the way to go. You don't have to deal with the goofy boulder at the top of the 5.7 since Monkey Off My Back ends at the top. The exposure was awesome, you feel like you are climbing on the side of some kind of floating boulder. This was the best 5.9 I had done in a long time. One 5.9ish move and the rest was pretty cake. Jun 20, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Totally agree - you've probably grunted up the bolt ladder pitch to the mouth to get here, so don't cheat yourself on the best part by proceeding straight up the standard, discontinuous 5.7 line. Moving right onto this variation extends your time on the awesome exposed face, and it's really well bolted. May 10, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
Thought I was actually on the 5.7 pitch of the Pioneer for this line until I topped out and thought... "wait a second, wasn't there supposed to be another pitch?"

Truly amazing positioning and exposure, great holds and great movement. I can't imagine for a second that the standard Pioneer is in fact better. Do this variation if you've made it up the bolt ladder. Just do it. May 27, 2014
Portland, OR
tsherry   Portland, OR
Probably the best 5.9(ish) out there! When I clipped that first bolt at panic point I looked up at the next bolt on the 5.7, then looked right at the next bolt on this. So glad I chose to go right. Calling it 5.9 might be a little heavy. All the holds are there. Exposure is AMAZING. Definitely stop mid-route and take a moment to look down and soak it in. Oct 12, 2015
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
Similar to Adam Volwiler, West Face Variation Direct -> Pioneer bolt ladder -> this route is a great easy way to the top, much better than the standard Pioneer Route. It's not listed here on MP, but the Watts book also has a 5.9 mixed route called King Kong that starts right of West Face Variation and will get you to Bohn Street. May 24, 2017
Taylorsville, UT
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
When I pulled out of the mouth of the monkey there were two guys setting up to rap from the nose. They took up the whole ledge so I decided to see where this went, having no idea what it was, but at least the holds looked good. Boy I'm glad I did! Hands down one of my favorite pitches in the park, or maybe anywhere! Easy moves with big exposure and mental factor. Don't skip out on this one! Oct 7, 2017

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