Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: J.B. Tribout, 1992
Page Views: 14,046 total · 230/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on May 22, 2014 with improvements by Jonah Kreitzberg
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014.

Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

a cool video of Palo sending... vimeo.com/56333259

Location

Smith Rock, Monkey Face. The route is on the east side of the Monkey Face tower, pretty hard to miss.

Protection

18 bolts

Photos

Adam Stackhouse    
 
"' June 2014, American Paige Claassen redpointed the 18-bolt route in a send that took 47 minutes."" Jun 3, 2016
Michael Holmes
Eugene/ Bend
Michael Holmes   Eugene/ Bend
Just curious, can you climb this with an 80m rope? Jan 21, 2018
November 10th 2018 Adam Ondra onsighted this route in 18 minutes! This is arguably the most difficult onsight in the US to date, the two other onsights being Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination also done by Ondra. Nov 10, 2018
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Mike:
Yes 80M works comfortably, I seem to remember Ted could also lower off the last or second to last bolt with a 70M Nov 12, 2018