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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: J.B. Tribout, 1992
Page Views: 6,986 total, 161/month
Shared By: bmb on May 22, 2014 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Haven't been on this myself, but figured it needed a description on MP. I think the most recent ascents (since 2012) of this classic route was by Ryan Palo, Paige Classen and Drew Ruana.

Palo describes it in an interview post-send:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

a cool video of Palo sending...

Location

Smith Rock, Monkey Face. The route is on the east side of the Monkey Face tower, pretty hard to miss.

Protection

17 bolts

Photos

Adam Stackhouse    
 
"' June 2014, American Paige Claassen redpointed the 18-bolt route in a send that took 47 minutes."" Jun 3, 2016