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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: J.B. Tribout, 1992
Page Views: 10,250 total · 187/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on May 22, 2014 with updates from Jonah Kreitzberg
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Haven't been on this myself, but figured it needed a description on MP. I think the most recent ascents (since 2012) of this classic route was by Ryan Palo, Paige Classen and Drew Ruana.

Palo describes it in an interview post-send:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

a cool video of Palo sending...


Smith Rock, Monkey Face. The route is on the east side of the Monkey Face tower, pretty hard to miss.


18 bolts


Adam Stackhouse    
"' June 2014, American Paige Claassen redpointed the 18-bolt route in a send that took 47 minutes."" Jun 3, 2016
Michael Holmes
Eugene/ Bend
Michael Holmes   Eugene/ Bend
Just curious, can you climb this with an 80m rope? Jan 21, 2018
November 10th 2018 Adam Ondra onsighted this route in 18 minutes! This is arguably the most difficult onsight in the US to date, the two other onsights being Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination also done by Ondra. 7 days ago
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Yes 80M works comfortably, I seem to remember Ted could also lower off the last or second to last bolt with a 70M 6 days ago

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