Type: Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: J.B. Tribout, 1992
Page Views: 26,148 total · 215/month
Shared By: Ben Murphy-Baum on May 22, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014.

Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

a cool video of Palo sending... vimeo.com/56333259

Location Suggest change

Smith Rock, Monkey Face. The route is on the east side of the Monkey Face tower, pretty hard to miss.

Protection Suggest change

18 bolts

Photos

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