Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | J.B. Tribout, 1992 |
Page Views: | 24,658 total · 229/month |
Shared By: | Ben Murphy-Baum on May 22, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014.
Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:
"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."
It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."
a cool video of Palo sending... vimeo.com/56333259
Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:
"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."
It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."
a cool video of Palo sending... vimeo.com/56333259
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