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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: FFA of entire route A.Watts & C. Grover, 1983
Page Views: 7,178 total, 51/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Pitch 1: Sustained difficult face climbing on thin edges past three bolts gains a very thin crack and 1 more bolt to a small roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to a two bolt anchor (11d).

Pitch 2: A steep finger crack for 12' leads to lower angle climbing and an anchor at the base of a left facing and slanting dihedral (5.9).

Pitch 3: Sustained 5.10 climbing in the dihedral (some fixed gear) leads to a bolt above a roof. Pull the roof (11a) and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 4: This short pitch goes up a dihedral and right around a small roof to a large ledge (Bohn Street) (10-).

Pitch 5 and 6: Finish on Monkey Space (5.11).

Location

This route begins at the base of the west side of the Monkey. Rappel down the east face of the Monkey from the summitt.

Protection

Gear to 2" and many quick draws.
Glad to see people enjoying the new bolts! Oct 8, 2015
Stephen Sh
Portland
 
Stephen Sh   Portland
 
Climbed Astro Monkey via the Moving in Stereo start with Linda S. on 9/24. It’s a fantastic classic route, worth repeating. This was my second go and I’m already looking forward to a third. A few notes:

  • Gear: Mostly finger sizes. #1 camalot (red) was the largest piece I needed.
  • Bolts: As noted above, mostly new bolts and stainless hangers – thanks for the re-bolting! A few exceptions – anchor above the 5.7 blocks (P1) has one new stainless and two old bolts with a Leeper hanger and an aluminum hanger. Belay is easily backed up with gear. And one of the two bolts for the anchor at the lip of the head cave (start of P2 Monkey Space) has pulled out of the rock about an inch.
  • I tried the Southwest Corner Traverse (.11b) variation this time, exiting to the right after the diagonal crack but didn’t find it very interesting. Can’t recommend it.
  • Communication: Since the anchor for the final pitch is atop the monkey’s head, communication with the belayer in the head cave is difficult even thought the linear distance is short. It’s nearly impossible to hear each other when the wind is blowing. Good to work out non-verbal signals in advance.



Oct 6, 2015
Mark Hudon
Lives on the road
Mark Hudon   Lives on the road
An Excellent route. All the bolts are pretty modern and good as of 4/7/14. Apr 8, 2014
A superb climb I will climb again and again. The first pitch is slowly getting harder we found it to be stiff for 12a and the difficulties persist on gear. Second time round I tried moving in stereo as a start which I enjoyed much more. I recommend stick clipping (possibly with the crutches!) for the first bolt. The first bolt is some pebble pinching and then the climbing eases until a crux at the second to last bolt or so. Nic and I pulled the shitty bolts on P2&3 belay anchors but the bottom bolts of both starting pitches are very suspect 1/4" bolts with hard to clip hangers. I plan on upgrading these this fall but anyone is welcome to beat me to it!
Jon Jul 10, 2012
ktaylor
Bay Area, CA
 
ktaylor   Bay Area, CA
 
Yeah Bob! Jun 29, 2010
Bob Graham  
 
One of the best routes I have done at Smith, super classic. The anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch steep dihedral is old an mankey. Jun 28, 2010