Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Kent Benesch, 1986
Page Views: 590 total · 33/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Nov 3, 2019
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

This is the alternate, and perhaps slightly better, start to Astro Monkey, following a line of bolts 15 ft right of the normal first pitch. Supposedly holds have broken on Astro Monkey's start, making it harder and arguably less awesome than Moving In Stereo. You decide! I was personally drawn more to MIS so I thought I'd share some beta:

I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.

The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;)  There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.

You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032

Location

Astro Monkey is left by about 15 feet, and has 3 bolts below a tips crack. Moving in Stereo is solidly bolted the whole way. Both routes start literally right off the trail below the west face of the Monkey Face. 

Protection

7 bolts. Optional gear to 1.5" if continuing up to the higher belay of Astro Monkey.

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