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Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 44.37053, -121.14363 |
| FA: | Kent Benesch, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,527 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Nov 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is the alternate, and perhaps slightly better, start to Astro Monkey, following a line of bolts 15 ft right of the normal first pitch. Supposedly holds have broken on Astro Monkey's start, making it harder and arguably less awesome than Moving In Stereo. You decide! I was personally drawn more to MIS so I thought I'd share some beta:
I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.
The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;) There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.
You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032
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