Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Kent Benesch, 1986 |
Page Views: | 1,387 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Nov 3, 2019 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is the alternate, and perhaps slightly better, start to Astro Monkey, following a line of bolts 15 ft right of the normal first pitch. Supposedly holds have broken on Astro Monkey's start, making it harder and arguably less awesome than Moving In Stereo. You decide! I was personally drawn more to MIS so I thought I'd share some beta:
I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.
The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;) There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.
You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032
I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.
The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;) There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.
You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032
Photos
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