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Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kent Benesch, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,147 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Nov 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is the alternate, and perhaps slightly better, start to Astro Monkey, following a line of bolts 15 ft right of the normal first pitch. Supposedly holds have broken on Astro Monkey's start, making it harder and arguably less awesome than Moving In Stereo. You decide! I was personally drawn more to MIS so I thought I'd share some beta:
I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.
The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;) There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.
You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032
I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.
The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;) There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux.
You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032
Photos
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