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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962
Page Views: 7,775 total, 55/month
Shared By: corvegas on May 14, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.

P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.

P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.

P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.

P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.

Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.

Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.

Protection

Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.
Jay Swamidass
Anchorage, AK
 
Jay Swamidass   Anchorage, AK
 
Super fun aid route!

We started late and ended up reaching the west face cave after dark and had a difficult time finding the bolt line out of the cave. Since it's not totally clear on here, I'll point out that the route continues out of the cave from a point on the left side of the upper lip of the cave. If you end up stuck after dark, just look directly up from the line of the 3rd pitch bolt ladder and you will see two anchor bolts, followed by three bolts moving to the left, leading to a small ledge that continues to a run-out 5th class scramble to the summit. May 6, 2014
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  Easy 5th C1
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  Easy 5th C1
Only did P1 as we were pressed for time. Some notes: Andy's rack notes above are good, however I brought a set of brass nuts and didn't place any. I also had a full set of Stoppers and DMM alloy offsets. The offsets were very useful. I cam hooked twice, more for the experience. Not mandatory. Perhaps those spots are where the brass would come in handy. A fun aid outing, for sure. Feb 24, 2014
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
Note that if you want to bail the route at the top of the 2nd pitch, you will need to tie off a rope at the start of P2(to pull yourself back to the anchors) otherwise you are rapping into air(20-25 away from the wall) and will never be able to get back to the top of P1 anchors. Jan 2, 2014
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The standard method for freeing the first pitch is to start up Sheer Trickery, then head right after the third bolt to join the West Face crack. I don't know if the "direct" bolt ladder has ever been freed. Apr 27, 2010
Calvin Landrus
Bend, OR
Calvin Landrus   Bend, OR
I'm trying to free the first pitch. Has anyone ever tried to avoid the bolt ladder that free from the ground-up coming in from the left using bolts from other routes? Doing as a aid pitch is super good too. Its an amazing crack. Apr 27, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Climbed this as an aid route for a fun diversion, and here are the details:

P1 (130') C1 - Fun and engaging. I needed a hook to reach the first bolt, but I probably could have tried harder and made one free move to reach it. Offset nuts from small (#3/4 HBs) to the big aluminum ones are key. 2-3 sets recommended along with one or two sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. I used a green and red camalot too.

P2 (80') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 23 bolts. Easy to back clean every other one.

P3 (100') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 19 bolts - but you might not want to back clean too many as they are pretty reachy. Skip the intermediate belay. You'll either need to free climb or hook for a move or two to reach the bolt off the intermediate belay ledge. The dismount into the West Face cave was made easy with a #1 camalot. The west face cave is littered with loose rock and the edges are sharp. BRING DUCT TAPE TO PAD THE EDGES (there are two)!!

P4 (60') C0/5easy - Thrash and dangle out the left bolt line to a ledge and then scramble to the top!

The rap down was super cool!

Gear: 2-3 sets of offset nuts from small to large. 2 sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. One green and one red camalot. A medium hook can't hurt. There are ledges are each belay, so no belay seat needed. Apr 27, 2010
Shapp  
Big props to the late Chris Pernel (spelling?)for replacing the ancient belay bolts back in the early 1990s, which made all future ascents possible. P.s. if you lost a Petzel zoom in the back notch cave in the early 1990s, send me an email and I can get it back to you. No longer need it now that there are nicer smaller ones available. Oct 28, 2009
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular! Mar 26, 2008