Avg: 3.5 from 215 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||42,048 total · 286/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Jan 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
DescriptionThis historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge.
Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure.
Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge.
From here is a 4th class jaunt to the true summit. Be sure to take in the scenery and take pics for your REI catalog cover shot.
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch. Another short single rope rap takes you back to the cave (these top 2 raps can be difficult to pull). From the cave you have several options:
1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the east edge of the cave to 3rd class below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It. After this double rope rap you can circle back west to the base of the variation or continue up and over the top of the main buttress on the trail.
2. Take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).
3. Rap the route (not recommended but possible with single 60m)