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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,145 total, 94/month
Shared By: DCSwish23 on Sep 27, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Same as West Face Variation
P2: Climb up and left to dihedral crack that leads straight up to the finish of West Face Variation P3

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos

I agree with the comments (on the West Face Variation page) that say this Direct P2 is no harder than P1 - both seemed 5.8 to me. I was worried the flare would be a chimney nightmare, but it wasn't - there were enough good holds to keep it 5.8 (though perhaps shorter climbers would need 5.9 moves to reach those holds). Didn't need any knee bars. Jun 28, 2016
Matt Skorina
Bend, OR
Matt Skorina   Bend, OR
Really stellar climb. I found the start of P1 to be a little challenging, but it was cruising for the rest of the pitch. Got to the base of the bolt ladder and it got dark and we decided to bail. Double ropes will reach from the anchors at the base of the bolt ladder to the top of P1, a 70m will just kiss the ground from there (we did another double rope rappel). Probably not the easiest way down but our knot didn't get stuck on either pull. Nov 30, 2015
dydayley
camas,wa
 
dydayley   camas,wa
 
Great thought provoking 1st and 2nd pitch. Loved the 2nd pitch dihedral. bordering on a 5.9. The direct route is a must do. Pulled panic point in the rain and it was a great adventure. Thank goodness for jugs. Jun 4, 2015
Muscrat

  5.8
Muscrat    
  5.8
I can not believe there are no comments for this route? The climbing is classic, varied, entertaining, and thoughtful. The second pitch has stumped friends who thought they could cruise 5.8. Just fun, and of course it gets you to one of the classic top outs on the top of the monkey. Dec 13, 2014