Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,264 total · 102/month
Shared By: DCSwish23 on Sep 27, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

112 Opinions

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P1: Same as West Face Variation
P2: Climb up and left to dihedral crack that leads straight up to the finish of West Face Variation P3


Standard trad rack



I can not believe there are no comments for this route? The climbing is classic, varied, entertaining, and thoughtful. The second pitch has stumped friends who thought they could cruise 5.8. Just fun, and of course it gets you to one of the classic top outs on the top of the monkey. Dec 13, 2014
dydayley   camas,wa
Great thought provoking 1st and 2nd pitch. Loved the 2nd pitch dihedral. bordering on a 5.9. The direct route is a must do. Pulled panic point in the rain and it was a great adventure. Thank goodness for jugs. Jun 4, 2015
Matt Skorina
Bend, OR
Matt Skorina   Bend, OR
Really stellar climb. I found the start of P1 to be a little challenging, but it was cruising for the rest of the pitch. Got to the base of the bolt ladder and it got dark and we decided to bail. Double ropes will reach from the anchors at the base of the bolt ladder to the top of P1, a 70m will just kiss the ground from there (we did another double rope rappel). Probably not the easiest way down but our knot didn't get stuck on either pull. Nov 30, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
I agree with the comments (on the West Face Variation page) that say this Direct P2 is no harder than P1 - both seemed 5.8 to me. I was worried the flare would be a chimney nightmare, but it wasn't - there were enough good holds to keep it 5.8 (though perhaps shorter climbers would need 5.9 moves to reach those holds). Didn't need any knee bars. Jun 28, 2016
Seth Wiggins
Portland, OR
Seth Wiggins   Portland, OR
Great climb - a difficult 5.8 to lead but definitely worth it. May 13, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
Can sorta do it in 1 pitch with an 80m, but you'll have to really cut down on extraneous pro placements. Did the link with a single double rack to 3 comfortably. May 29, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
One of those "classic" routes where the stars come from the novelty of the feature being climbed, not the quality of the climbing itself.

Yes, this route will get you to the top of a formation that looks like a monkey from a distance, and no the climbing is not incredible. Aug 13, 2018