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West Face Variation Direct

5.8, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 181 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

P1: Same as West Face Variation
P2: Climb up and left to dihedral crack that leads straight up to the finish of West Face Variation P3

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up from top of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking up from top of the first pitch
Looking up from the start of P1. Climber can be seen looking up from near P1 anchors
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the start of P1. Climber can be seen looking up from near P1 anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Muscrat

  5.8
[Hide Comment] I can not believe there are no comments for this route? The climbing is classic, varied, entertaining, and thoughtful. The second pitch has stumped friends who thought they could cruise 5.8. Just fun, and of course it gets you to one of the classic top outs on the top of the monkey. Dec 13, 2014
dydayley
camas,wa
 
[Hide Comment] Great thought provoking 1st and 2nd pitch. Loved the 2nd pitch dihedral. bordering on a 5.9. The direct route is a must do. Pulled panic point in the rain and it was a great adventure. Thank goodness for jugs. Jun 4, 2015
Matt Skorina
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Really stellar climb. I found the start of P1 to be a little challenging, but it was cruising for the rest of the pitch. Got to the base of the bolt ladder and it got dark and we decided to bail. Double ropes will reach from the anchors at the base of the bolt ladder to the top of P1, a 70m will just kiss the ground from there (we did another double rope rappel). Probably not the easiest way down but our knot didn't get stuck on either pull. Nov 30, 2015
Serge S
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I agree with the comments (on the West Face Variation page) that say this Direct P2 is no harder than P1 - both seemed 5.8 to me. I was worried the flare would be a chimney nightmare, but it wasn't - there were enough good holds to keep it 5.8 (though perhaps shorter climbers would need 5.9 moves to reach those holds). Didn't need any knee bars. Jun 28, 2016
John Clark
Reno, NV
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Can sorta do it in 1 pitch with an 80m, but you'll have to really cut down on extraneous pro placements. Did the link with a single double rack to 3 comfortably. May 29, 2018
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] One of those "classic" routes where the stars come from the novelty of the feature being climbed, not the quality of the climbing itself.

Yes, this route will get you to the top of a formation that looks like a monkey from a distance, and no the climbing is not incredible. Aug 13, 2018
Ben Bilbrough
Portland, OR
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Great climb

A little runout and crumbly towards the top of pitch 2 (approaching the notch)

Dihedral crack on pitch 2 was the highlight for me. Very secure finger jams and stemming with rests.

We double rope rapped from the right side of the base of the bolt ladder to the misery ridge trail (East side of Monkey) and walked back down to the base of the climb. 5 minute walk. May 13, 2019
Andrew Child
Corvallis, Or
 
[Hide Comment] Most of the gear placements were not confidence inspiring, climbing was ok at best. I suspect that many gave this route high ratings because they linked it into routes that top out the monkey face even though the description is only for the first two pitches. Jun 25, 2019
Blair Ryan
Washington and Vermont
 
[Hide Comment] I’d give it two stars but this route is overrated. So it get’s one this time. Not even close to 3 stars. Jun 20, 2023