West Face Variation
Avg: 3.7 from 111 votes
Routes in (s) Monkey Face
|Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2|
|Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b|
|Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2|
|Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0|
|Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R|
|Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1|
|West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0|
|West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA -Tom Bauman, Bob Ashworth 1965, FFA -Tom Bauman, Bob Ashworth 1967|
|Page Views:||12,584 total, 88/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Jan 31, 2006|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThis variation on the Pioneer route provides the finest moderate route to the Monkey's Summit. It adds several great pitches and about another 100ft of climbing to the standard route.
Pitch 1: Begin on the right side of the west face of Monkey Face. Begin in a short section of flaring chimney or just to the right of this chimney on a small crack on the face. Move up these harder opening moves onto easier cracks. Continue up through a dihedral with a few bolts and a few mini roofs to a stance and a bolted anchor just below a 4th class ramp. This pitch is fairly long.
Pitch 2: Climb the slotted ramp above to a steep large roof. There are several variations here but the easiest is follow a crack out the right side of the roof. Pull around the roof on the right side and you'll see the anchors.
Pitch 3: Traverse left on a slab protecting in a thin crack on the wall in fron of you. From here head toward the notch formed between the monkey and the main buttress. Continue up the slab on the Pioneer route to the anchor below red rock and the aid pitch.
Rappel as Pioneer route