Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33,097 total · 166/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details


This variation to the Pioneer Route is the most popular way to ascend the monkey face free. It is classic in its own right.

Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey. Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch.

1st Pitch: 5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route. Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts.

2nd Pitch: 5.11b Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.

Descend as Pioneer route.