Avg: 3.7 from 71 votes
Routes in (s) Monkey Face
|Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2|
|Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b|
|Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2|
|Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0|
|Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R|
|Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1|
|West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0|
|West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||21,124 total, 147/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Jan 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThis variation to the Pioneer Route is the most popular way to ascend the monkey face free. It is classic in its own right.
Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey. Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch.
1st Pitch: 5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route. Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts.
2nd Pitch: 5.11b Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.
Descend as Pioneer route.