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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kim Schmitz & Gerald Bjorkamn - summer 1964
Page Views: 6,552 total · 47/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 10, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route also goes free at 5.13d!

P1 - C2 or 5.12c - Aid or free the crack to a sling belay this pitch eats nuts.
P2 - C2 or 5.13d - Aid the crack up past 4 bolts (replaced by Alan Watts on his free attempt). Belay from 2 brand new bolts.
P3 - 5.6 C1 or 5.10b - Aid up the bolt ladder past one old belay to a slab to the summit. Many old bolts on this pitch.

P1 & P2 link with 60m rope. This takes more gear so you might want to back clean a little.

Location [Suggest Change]

the only crack on the east face

Protection [Suggest Change]

clean rack to 2" heavy on the nuts

Photos

No bolts were added prior to the first free ascent, but four quarter inch bolts placed by Gerald Bjorkman were replaced with 3/8" bolts Feb 2, 2009
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
Alan, you da man!!!! Apr 25, 2010
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
Yea.... this is NOT the only crack on the East face... Why does Mountain Proj not have any info listed for Rising Expectations (also on the East face...) Feb 14, 2012

More About East Face

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