Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kim Schmitz & Gerald Bjorkamn - summer 1964
Page Views: 6,970 total · 48/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 10, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route also goes free at 5.13d!

P1 - C2 or 5.12c - Aid or free the crack to a sling belay this pitch eats nuts.
P2 - C2 or 5.13d - Aid the crack up past 4 bolts (replaced by Alan Watts on his free attempt). Belay from 2 brand new bolts.
P3 - 5.6 C1 or 5.10b - Aid up the bolt ladder past one old belay to a slab to the summit. Many old bolts on this pitch.

P1 & P2 link with 60m rope. This takes more gear so you might want to back clean a little.

Location

the only crack on the east face

Protection

clean rack to 2" heavy on the nuts

Photos

No bolts were added prior to the first free ascent, but four quarter inch bolts placed by Gerald Bjorkman were replaced with 3/8" bolts Feb 2, 2009
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
Alan, you da man!!!! Apr 25, 2010
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
Yea.... this is NOT the only crack on the East face... Why does Mountain Proj not have any info listed for Rising Expectations (also on the East face...) Feb 14, 2012