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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 14,660 total · 101/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!

Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.

At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.

A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.

Location

On the NE corner of the Monkey. Begin at the far right end of the E. Face/Rising Expectations/Just Do It ledge.

Protection

Bolts. Stick clip might be useful. It's not necessary to bring gear for the final East Face crack section, but you can if you want to.

Photos

Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.12a R
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.12a R
WOW! This thing is the full package. The position, excitement, and rock quality are unbelievable. The movement is great too. A few of the falls would be pretty dang ugly/dangerous. Jun 29, 2011

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