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Routes in (s) Monkey Face

Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Backbone, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2
Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Charlie Egan and Matt Spohn
Page Views: 258 total · 41/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Charlie and I climbed this route during the totality of the 2017 eclipse. It was an exciting venture and an exciting route (really it's just a long and exposed boulder problem several hundred feet off the deck).

Start a little left of the middle of the cave and climb out the overhang, doing gymnastic moves and some campusing while veering rightward.

I placed two cams in a rotten horizontal shelf about 10 feet into the climb. If these blow you will take a factor two fall, your rope tightening over the 90 degree lip of the cave. This would be very bad and I think the climb deserves an R/X rating (I bounced tested the placements before I lead the route and they held. They might hold a lead fall).

After this do a really spectacular move that involves an undercling jug, a heal hook, and a little crimper fin. So neat!

Then stay calm, move even higher above those cams, do a nifty reach out right, sling the natural handle bar, and say yippee! phew! thank goodness! Then change your diaper.

Location

The route comes out of the middle of the Monkey's mouth and ends left of the nose.

Protection

Two equalized cams (#4, #5 Metolius), one Metolius sling for a natural handle bar, a Pampers diaper.

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