Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Charlie Egan and Matt Spohn
Page Views: 864 total · 61/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Charlie and I climbed this route during the totality of the 2017 eclipse. It was an exciting venture and an exciting route (really it's just a long and exposed boulder problem several hundred feet off the deck).

Start a little left of the middle of the cave and climb out the overhang, doing gymnastic moves and some campusing while veering rightward.

I placed two cams in a rotten horizontal shelf about 10 feet into the climb. If these blow you will take a factor two fall, your rope tightening over the 90 degree lip of the cave. This would be very bad and I think the climb deserves an R/X rating (I bounced tested the placements before I lead the route and they held. They might hold a lead fall).

After this do a really spectacular move that involves an undercling jug, a heal hook, and a little crimper fin. So neat!

Then stay calm, move even higher above those cams, do a nifty reach out right, sling the natural handle bar, and say yippee! phew! thank goodness! Then change your diaper.

Location

The route comes out of the middle of the Monkey's mouth and ends left of the nose.

Protection

Two equalized cams (#4, #5 Metolius), one Metolius sling for a natural handle bar, a Pampers diaper.

Photos

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