Elevation: 11,239 ft
GPS: 45.3733, -121.6957
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 Easy Snow PG13
 269
South Side Route
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3 Mod. Snow
 24
North Face Right Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Mod. Snow
 47
Leuthold Couloir
Snow, Alpine
AI2 Mod. Snow PG13
 8
Sandy Glacier Headwall
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 25
Cooper Spur
Trad, Snow, Alpine
AI2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
 31
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) -…
Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
 6
Ravine
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Mod. Snow
 11
Sunshine Route
Snow, Alpine
AI3 Steep Snow
 33
Reid Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2 Steep Snow
 3
Steel Cliff South Face
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI3 Steep Snow R
 6
Yocum Ridge
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI4 M4+ PG13
 6
Black Spider - Fric-Amos
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI3 M3 Steep Snow
 4
Cathedral Ramp
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
 6
Eliot Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 19
Wy'East
Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Side Route
 269
WI2 Easy Snow PG13 Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Face Right Gully
 24
WI3 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Leuthold Couloir
 47
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Sandy Glacier Headwall
 8
AI2 Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Cooper Spur
 25
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (D…
 31
AI2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Ravine
 6
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Sunshine Route
 11
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Reid Glacier Headwall
 33
AI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Steel Cliff South Face
 3
AI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Yocum Ridge
 6
AI3 Steep Snow R Ice, Snow, Alpine
Black Spider - Fric-Amos
 6
WI4 M4+ PG13 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Cathedral Ramp
 4
WI3 M3 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Eliot Glacier Headwall
 6
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Wy'East
 19
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Hood »

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