Elevation: 11,239 ft
GPS: 45.373, -121.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 169,400 total · 969/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006 with improvements by Bruce Lacroix
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow PG13
 216
South Side Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
WI3+ Mod. Snow
 19
North Face Right Gully
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
AI1 Mod. Snow
 37
Leuthold Couloir
Ice, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow PG13
 6
Sandy Glacier Headwall
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 21
Cooper Spur
Trad, Snow, Alpine
AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13
 23
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) -…
Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Mod. Snow
 10
West Crater Rim Route (WCR)
Snow, Alpine
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
 4
Ravine
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Mod. Snow
 10
Sunshine Route
Snow, Alpine
AI3 Steep Snow
 27
Reid Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine
AI2-3 Mod. Snow
 4
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) -…
Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
AI2 Mod. Snow
 3
Flying Buttress (DKH V3)
Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
AI3 Steep Snow R
 4
Yocum Ridge
Ice, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
 3
Elliot Glacier Headwall
Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
 16
Wy'East
Snow, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Side Route
 216
Easy Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine
North Face Right Gully
 19
WI3+ Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Leuthold Couloir
 37
AI1 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Sandy Glacier Headwall
 6
Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine
Cooper Spur
 21
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (D…
 23
AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 Ice, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
West Crater Rim Route (WCR)
 10
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Ravine
 4
WI3 M4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Sunshine Route
 10
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
Reid Glacier Headwall
 27
AI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (D…
 4
AI2-3 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Flying Buttress (DKH V3)
 3
AI2 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Yocum Ridge
 4
AI3 Steep Snow R Ice, Snow, Alpine
Elliot Glacier Headwall
 3
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Wy'East
 16
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Hood »

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