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Routes in Mt. Hood

Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X
Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow X
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 PG13
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow
Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Leuthold Couloir T Mod. Snow
North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow R
Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow
Sandy Glacier Headwall T Mod. Snow PG13
South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13
Sunshine Route Mod. Snow
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Steep Snow
Wy'East 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Description [Edit]

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There [Edit]

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Hood »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
According to recent news reports, this is the 2nd most climbed mountain in the world. Any clue as to the 1st? Dec 18, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
From what I've heard, Mt. Hood is the 2nd most glaciated mountain climbed in the world. Mt. Fuji is #1. Dec 18, 2006
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
Has anyone climbed Hood in August?
I'm considering it but it would be my first climb involving glacier travel and I'm not sure I'm up to it. Any thoughts?
Thanks. Jul 11, 2007
Nate Farr
Flagstaff, AZ
Nate Farr   Flagstaff, AZ
Hood's not recommended in August because rockfall gets too bad. Most people would say up until June, and then again once the rock freezes up in the late fall. Mar 6, 2008
Roswell
Newnan. Ga
Roswell   Newnan. Ga
Conditions Mid-March to Mid-May and if possible to climb. Reliable source for checking conditions would be appreciated. Dec 17, 2013
Mt Hood: A Climber's Guide is now available. This is a fabulous book compelled by Bill Mullee with writing and input from over 30 Hood veterans, including Fred Beckey and Jim Wickwire!

Purchase it now and get a free 2-year subscription to the eBook!

stores.sharpendbooks.com/mt… May 16, 2014
Are there any "safer" routes that can be done in August? Getting off the main one would be nice anyway. May 26, 2015
Chris C.
Seattle, WA
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
The only downside to this mountain is the long and boring walk from and to the parking lot. The true definition of a slog. Jan 16, 2017
I am going to make the climb the week of the 27 and am looking for a partner. If you can make it, experienced or not, I will be making the summit. Please let me know. Feb 13, 2017

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