| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5300 ft (1606 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.36567, -121.70244 |
| FA: | W.L. Chittenden, James G. Dierdorff - Aug 6, 1857 |
| Page Views: | 50,580 total · 203/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Feb 1, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Description
The south side of hood is one of the most popular routes up a glaciated mountain in the world. Also called the "Dog Route" or "Slog Route," this route has also claimed the most deaths on the mountain.
The South Side Route requires few technical skills, but still has objective dangers! Use caution at all times when on the mountain.
The route traditionally begins at Timberline Lodge at 5900ft. Some guided trips may include a snowcat ride up the Palmer Lift, but most local mountaineers consider this cheating. From Timberline Lodge, follow the marked climbers trail along the right edge of the ski area; do not climb directly under the ski lifts, especially during active grooming operations!
Continue heading straight up the mountain toward the right side of a rock outcrop called Crater Rock. A large flat area here, referred to as Devil's Kitchen, is a common location for a break and a transition to the more technical climbing. Above Devil's Kitchen, you'll find a saddle formed between crater rock and the main summit, known as the hogsback. Be careful of fumaroles in this area as they can release poisonous gases.
From here, there are a variety of route options, depending on conditions, time of year, and other variables. Traditionally, directly above the Hogsback one could climb the Pearly Gates, but in recent years (as of 2026) the Hogsback has been receding and making this a more challenging undertaking. To climber's left of The Gates is Old Chute, and several variations that go through various clefts in the crater rim such as One O'Clock Couloir and Mazama Chute.
All of these options start out in fairly mellow terrain, and increase in steepness near the top of the ridge crest. Conditions can vary from hard alpine ice to a well-traveled staircase, depending on conditions, time of year, and traffic. Climbers should come prepared and equipped for a variety of conditions.
Above the steepest parts of the climb, a short walk across easy low-angle terrain will bring you to the true summit. Be aware of hazardous cornices to the north and east sides of the mountain, especially during winter.
Descend the route. Be careful as the route conditions can change dramatically in a short period of time.
Protection
Gear required will vary widely considering on the season and conditions. In good conditions, a light axe and crampons may be sufficient, while in more difficult conditions climbers may desire a second axe or tool, or a rope and protection.
Common gear includes:
Crampons, Ice axe, optional second axe or tool, rope, pickets, harness, belay device.
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