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Routes in Mt. Hood

Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X
Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow X
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 PG13
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow
Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Leuthold Couloir T Mod. Snow
North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow R
Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow
Sandy Glacier Headwall T Mod. Snow PG13
South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13
Sunshine Route Mod. Snow
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Steep Snow
Wy'East 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 467 total · 39/month
Shared By: Ben Stabley on Jul 26, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Also called Variation 2 (V2) in Mullee's "Mt Hood Climber's Guide", this alternative to the standard DKH route (Left var or V1) provides a more interesting way to get to the fun bits of the Wyeast route.

The route is found in the corner where the Devil's Kitchen Headwall and the Steel Cliffs join. It begins on moderate snow. Approximately half way up, a fork is encountered where the left path dead-ends. This could be a good spot to set up a belay for the upper part, which is steeper. At the fork, continue on the right path, more or less straight up. After climbing through a steep final bit, you'll arrive on top of the Steel Cliffs. Choose your favorite way to navigate the fun gendarmes of the upper Wyeast route and head for the summit.


a few ice screws, 2-3 pickets. Will depend a lot on conditions.

When we climbed, at the beginning of June, the snow in the runnels was firm, but the steeper upper part was rotten ice-snow. Earlier in the season may be more solid rime, which would likely be prefered.



More About Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation