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Routes in Mt. Hood
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Black Spider - Fric-Amos T WI4 M4+ PG13 |
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Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X |
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Cathedral Ramp WI3 M3 Steep Snow |
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Cathedral Ridge AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow |
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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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East Crater Wall (DKH V4) AI2 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Eliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Flying Buttress (DKH V3) AI2 Mod. Snow |
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Icefall Chute (Boy Scouts Chute) AI2 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Leuthold Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Men of Steel AI3 PG13 |
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North Face Right Gully T WI3 Mod. Snow |
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Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow |
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Sandy Glacier Headwall T AI2 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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South Side Route T AI1 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Steel Cliff South Face AI2 Steep Snow |
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Sunshine Route Mod. Snow |
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West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Mod. Snow |
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Wy'East Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow |
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Yocum Ridge AI3 Steep Snow R |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,771 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Stabley on Jul 26, 2017 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Description
Also called Variation 2 (V2) in Mullee's "Mt Hood Climber's Guide", this alternative to the standard DKH route (Left var or V1) provides a more interesting way to get to the fun bits of the Wyeast route.
The route is found in the corner where the Devil's Kitchen Headwall and the Steel Cliffs join. It begins on moderate snow. Approximately half way up, a fork is encountered where the left path dead-ends. This could be a good spot to set up a belay for the upper part, which is steeper. At the fork, continue on the right path, more or less straight up. After climbing through a steep final bit, you'll arrive on top of the Steel Cliffs. Choose your favorite way to navigate the fun gendarmes of the upper Wyeast route and head for the summit.
The route is found in the corner where the Devil's Kitchen Headwall and the Steel Cliffs join. It begins on moderate snow. Approximately half way up, a fork is encountered where the left path dead-ends. This could be a good spot to set up a belay for the upper part, which is steeper. At the fork, continue on the right path, more or less straight up. After climbing through a steep final bit, you'll arrive on top of the Steel Cliffs. Choose your favorite way to navigate the fun gendarmes of the upper Wyeast route and head for the summit.
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