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Routes in South Side
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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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East Crater Wall (DKH V4) AI2 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Flying Buttress (DKH V3) AI2 Mod. Snow |
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Icefall Chute (Boy Scouts Chute) AI2 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Men of Steel AI3 PG13 |
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South Side Route AI1 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Steel Cliff South Face AI2 Steep Snow |
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West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Gary Leech 1933 |
| Page Views: | 2,625 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle Tarry on Sep 14, 2018 |
| Admins: | Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
This variation of Devil's Kitchen Headwall has less steep ice than the normal route(s), and allows for the climber to complete the upper portion of the Wyeast route, including the exposed gendarme and steep snow crux sections.
Follow moderate snow or easy ice up the gully towards what looks like a dead end headwall from below. Near the top, turn right up the obvious snow ramp, which brings you to the crest of the Wyeast ridge. Turn left and follow the ridge, through a small saddle (DKH V2 joins here), past the short traverse section (may be the crux) and up and right through moderate to steep snow (lots of exposure above the east face here) which eventually eases leads to the summit.
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