Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5239 ft (1588 m), Grade II
FA: Mount & Darr 1932
Page Views: 2,359 total · 45/month
Shared By: Chris C on Mar 13, 2020
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Approach the obvious bottom of the first chute from the Palmer Snow field over the White River Glacier, shooting towards the Wy'east ridge.  Make your way up the snow slope, watch for overhead hazards from the cliffs above.  Once you reach the cliffs, make your way climbers left over the small iced over rockband.  There are plenty of ways through the rhyme or water ice, so pick the path of optimal resistance. If pitched out, this makes for 2x 30m pitches. Find yourself on the second chute, and make your way straight up to what appears to be the top of a little cliff (or perpendicular ridge).  Once there, you will be granted with a spectacular view over the upper terrain of the mountain. Follow the path of least resistance over the Wy'east ridge to the the climber's right. From here, follow the standard Wy'east route up (or down).

This is a nice alternative to some of the steeper but short south side routes, getting on steeper terrain lower down than others, but never getting too steep. "Grade II AI2" feels a little light for this, but it is the most appropriate grade.

The Bill Mullee book is a fantastic resource for this and many many other routes on the peak.

Protection Suggest change

Pickets, handful of screws, 30m rope works well