Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1249 ft (378 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,632 total · 24/month
Shared By: Harvest Mondello on Jan 29, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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Route Suggest change

As you head up towards the chute the slope gets gradually steeper maxing out at 60 or 70 degrees in alpine ice or snow depending on conditions. It's about 200" before gaining the ridge. You can do this in two pitches but it may be easier in one long pitch unless you're willing to setup a higher belay anchor and you'd need to carve out a spot to stand for this. Most would simul climb. Go to the climbers right near the top of the headwall to gain the ridge. If the route is rock do not climb. If temperatures are above freezing expect bad icefall. There are small crevasses here to be aware of as you start at the base of Devils Kitchen towards the route.

If the alpine ice and snow is not consolidated well pro will likely not hold a fall. Typically the route won't consolidate untill spring and it'll be melted out soon after. Free soloing may be your only option and you may find you can't down climb if you decide to back out. A fall would be very bad here and could potentially land one in the Devils Kitchen Fumerol which is over 100 feet deep and has poisonous fumes. There's sometimes boulders visible at the top of the climb that could potentially be slung but use extreme caution in any anchor you setup here if you chose to set an anchor.

Generally, most people will want to protect this pitch with pickets if the snow is good to hold a fall and should consider another climb if it's not.

Once you gain the W'Yeast Ridge (South Ridge) you still have a long exposed climb to the summit if you choose to continue. There's another 1,000" of technical snow climbing and lots of very exposed traversing to gain the summit.

Here's the sections you climb next from the WY'east description page:

"Continue on this ridge, which is somewhat exposed, until you move up either a right leaning snow ramp or exposed rock. You will encounter a small down climb that, if frozen, should be relatively straight forward.  
 This portion of the climb is exposed.  Traverse up and right, following the base of a large rock formation.  Once around, follow a chute (between 50 and 55 degrees) to the summit ridge, and then up to the summit.
 If you do the route late in the season expect a lot of rock fall and rotten rock to climb.  The route finding should be fairly obvious earlier in the season, but later in the season it can be tricky...just follow the path of least resistance "

The WY'east finish is not recommended with exposed rock on the route. The WY'east Ridge is climbed on the East facing side, is very avi prone, receives early morning sunshine that makes the snow soft on the traverse very dangerous. A fall on the traverse would be near impossible to stop and impossible with soft snow. A fall here would drop a climber very far onto the Newton-Clark Glacier which would be a fatal fall. Pickets and a rope for the traverse is recommended and one should turn around if the snow won't hold a fall with a picket.

Approach Suggest change

Approach via the Standard South Side approach to Devils Kitchen at 10,000 elevation. That's 5,000 feet in elevation gain on the approach. When you arrive in the Devils Kitchen Bowl look for the the debris cone on the climbers riht. Look up towards the ridge and you'll see the last chute to gain the W'Yeast Ridge before the steeper Steel Cliffs.

Protection Suggest change

Pickets will only hold a fall if the snow and alpine ice is consolidated. Free soloing may be your only option. A fall would be very bad here and could potentially land one in the Devils Kitchen Fumerol which is over 100 feet deep and has poisonous fumes. Once on the ridge an un-arrested fall would be fatal. The W'Yeast Ridge only takes that would stop a fall in the best of conditions.


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