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Routes in Mt. Hood

Type: Trad, Alpine, 5300 ft, Grade IV
FA: Jim Mount, Ralph Calkin - Sept 4 1932
Page Views: 10,079 total, 70/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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22 Opinions

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This is a fine route that opens up spectacular views of the Reid glacier and inspiring views of Yokum Ridge.

While technically it doesn't require much more skill than the southside route, the Leuthold's couloir route entails crossing some crevassed terrain and avalanche prone slopes.

The usual start is the same as South side routes. As you pass the Silcox hut begin to gradually trend left heading towards llumination saddle formed by a large noticeable rock on SE side of Mountain. After crossing over the saddle drop down onto the Reid glacier. As you drop down traverse to the right toward Yokum Ridge. Pass several couloirs on the right until you basically hit the steep wall of Yokum ridge. Once there turn right and enter into Leuthold couloir proper. Follow the couloir as it narrows and winds up the mountain. As the couloir ends and opens up continue up easy slopes to the summit ridge and onto the summit.

Descend down southside route.


30m rope, pickets
Don Morris
Denver, CO
Don Morris   Denver, CO
Route climbed April 21, 2012. Traverse from Illumination Rock to Leuthold Couloir went high due to plenty of snow. Signs of avalanches from previous weeks snowfall were evident as slab. A few fracture lines were visible as well. During the traverse and climb in the couloir I had a mix of compacted snow, ice, neve, hollow snow and sugar. Most of the time it was compacted snow or ice. Beautiful climb. May 12, 2012