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Routes in Mt. Hood

Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X
Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow X
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow
Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Flying Buttress (DKH V3) AI2 Mod. Snow
Leuthold Couloir T Mod. Snow
North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow
Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow
Sandy Glacier Headwall T Mod. Snow PG13
South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13
Sunshine Route Mod. Snow
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Mod. Snow
Wy'East Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5300 ft, Grade III
FA: Will Langille, Doug Langille August 21, 1891
Page Views: 12,820 total · 82/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 12, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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The most popular North side route, Cooper Spur is a fun and obvious line. Although technically a small step up from the South Side route, Cooper Spur has long sections on steep ice where an unchecked fall can be deadly.

Begin at the Tilly Jane or Cloud Cap campgrounds and take established trails up to tree line. If you get lost this route is easy to find as it is the prominent ridge. A trail runs along the top of the ridge giving beautiful views of the Eliot Glacier to the right. Continue up the ridge until you reach an obvious large boulder known as tie-in rock. Past tie-in rock the climbing gets steeper (up to 45 degrees) and more dangerous.

There are not crevasse crossings on this route but a fall from above tie in rock would eventually drop you straight off of the Eliot Glacier headwall. Almost a dozen people have died on this route so take the necessary precautions. If the route is not in condition it is wise to come back another day.

The 2000ft above tie-in rock can be grueling and can slow climbers. Once to tie-in rock continue up a long snow chute to the summit. People have reported enormous rocks coming down this section so definitely don't forget your helmet. If temps are warm you had better be fast and a little lucky.

The last pitch of climbing can be either snow as steep as 50 degrees or exposed rock. Climbers can traverse right at the top to scale more mellow terrain.

Descents seem to be the most dangerous part of this route. As a result most shuttle a car around and take the South side route as a descent. Still, Cooper Spur is a popular ski descent. Another option is to descend the sunshine route to get back to the Tilly Jane or Cloud Cap campgrounds.


helmet, pickets, rope, harness, common sense

You might find the remains of old rope or cable near the summit from Mt. Hood's earlier eras.
Allen Sanderson
  Mod. Snow X
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  Mod. Snow X
Another option for a descent without a shuttle is to descend the south side and traverse back around on the Newton Clark Glacier. This will bring one back to the moraine on Cooper's Spur. The glacier is easy walking. I gave the route an X rating only for the descent because people have a nasty habit of falling down the route and dying. Aug 13, 2007
mark kerns
denver, co
mark kerns   denver, co
This route gets an early sun hit. The main reason for most parties to get into trouble on descents for this climb is a late start that forces a descent down moderately steep slopes that have softened significantly since the climbers had ascended. Start early, descend early to avoid soft, poor snow conditions that occur after the sun hits the slopes. Nov 17, 2007
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
1: Nothing about this route is x rated unless you were to climb it completely out of season (late summer) when there's no snow or ice. Yes an unprotected fall would be deadly from many places, but that's also true of an over bolted 5.8 clip-up. If you think you're going to fall-place protection.

2: The Sunshine route is an excellent descent option for all routes on this side of the mountain. It's comparable in steepness to the south side, requires safe glacier travel skills, and the ability to route-find because it sees far less traffic. Nov 22, 2011
crackatoa Spiesbach
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
Hey all,
I'm trying to plan this adventure for the last week in June this year. I was hoping someone may have some insight on the decent.
1) Is down climbing the route a poor option.. I'm planning on summiting at or just before dawn so i'm hoping the snow will be firm still.
2) What is the crevasse danger on the sunshine route? Is it a suicide mission as a solo climber? Jun 4, 2014
Porter McMichael
Bellingham, WA
  Mod. Snow R
Porter McMichael   Bellingham, WA
  Mod. Snow R
Climbed June 3 2017, road closed due to high snow 3 trail miles back from cloud cap camp ground, just adds 3mi of dirt to the beginning. I left the car at midnight and made the summit by 7am, little late, sun hit the spur as I was on it and some small ice chunks came down but no rock. No rock on the snow either so there has not been much rockfall this spring so far. Conditions were great once on the steep section. I never roped up and was never too scared, had a piolet and an ice tool and crampons, was very happy to have all of those, would have been scary with only 1 axe. Beautiful climb, only one on it on a weekend and the south side climb was packed with was the way I descended (I had a ride). Great climb, don't fall ;) Jun 5, 2017

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