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Routes in Mt. Hood

Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X
Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow X
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow
Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Flying Buttress (DKH V3) AI2 Mod. Snow
Leuthold Couloir T Mod. Snow
North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow
Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow
Sandy Glacier Headwall T Mod. Snow PG13
South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13
Sunshine Route Mod. Snow
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Mod. Snow
Wy'East Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
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Type: Snow, Alpine, 5300 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,201 total · 80/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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This is a great, relatively easy route up Mount Hood, avoiding the crowds of the South Side and catching great views of Adams, Rainier, and St. Helens along the way.

From Cloud Cap on the North side of Mount Hood, ascend the Timberline Trail to the moraine and continue toward Cooper Spur until reaching a large cairn. Follow the climber's trail down to the Eliot Glacier. Cross the glacier and head for the Snow Dome, ascend the dome and continue past Anderson Rock, trending up and right looking for a snow bridge to gain the ridge or a traverse over to gain it. Climb the ridge to the summit.

If the road to Cloud Cap is open, you'll be able to cut off nearly 4 miles and a bit over 2,000ft of elevation on the Tilly Jane trail.


North face, starting at Cloud Cap


Standard glacier-travel gear


Taylor Bentz  
This spring did this solo. Started at TJ TH as cloud cap road wasn't open. Bivied above the snow dome, for an amazing clear night. Woke up, went straight up to the ridge through the rocks (no traverse as it was looking unstable). Tried to ski off the cooper spur route but it hadn't softened up enough so I went down the south side. AMAZING skiing straight from the top. Dec 15, 2013
crackatoa Spiesbach
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
Whats the Crevase situation on this route. I'm thinking about doing the cooper spur and coming down this route.. Is doing this without a rope team safe like the south side or am I asking to get swallowed up.. probably going late June May 23, 2014…

If you are looking for a route up Hood and bypassing all of the other climbers and getting some insanely amazing views this is the route for you. SO glad we chose this route rather than the regular. More info in my blog link above. Aug 31, 2017

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