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Sunshine Route

Mod. Snow, Snow, Alpine, 5300 ft (1606 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2.7 from 13 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Oregon Volcanoes > a. Mt Hood > N Side

Description

This is a great, relatively easy route up Mount Hood, avoiding the crowds of the South Side and catching great views of Adams, Rainier, and St. Helens along the way.

From Cloud Cap on the North side of Mount Hood, ascend the Timberline Trail to the moraine and continue toward Cooper Spur until reaching a large cairn. Follow the climber's trail down to the Eliot Glacier. Cross the glacier and head for the Snow Dome, ascend the dome and continue past Anderson Rock, trending up and right looking for a snow bridge to gain the ridge or a traverse over to gain it. Climb the ridge to the summit.

If the road to Cloud Cap is open, you'll be able to cut off nearly 4 miles and a bit over 2,000ft of elevation on the Tilly Jane trail.

Location

North face, starting at Cloud Cap

Protection

Standard glacier-travel gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and marked. Crossing Anderson Rock and the bergschrund will change, depending on conditions. Earlier season ascents can go directly toward Horseshoe Rock rather than traversing West around the berg.<br> <br> Photographed on July 9, 2011 from Cloud Cap.
[Hide Photo] The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and marked. Crossing Anderson Rock and the bergschrund will change, depending on conditions. Earlier season ascents can go directly toward Horseshoe Rock…
Sunshine Route August 2019
[Hide Photo] Sunshine Route August 2019
Looking up the ridge just past the bergschrund 7/7/12
[Hide Photo] Looking up the ridge just past the bergschrund 7/7/12
Lower part of route with good skiing
[Hide Photo] Lower part of route with good skiing
Above Anderson Rock, below Horseshoe Rock looking at the Eliot Glacier with Cooper Spur on the right.
[Hide Photo] Above Anderson Rock, below Horseshoe Rock looking at the Eliot Glacier with Cooper Spur on the right.
Cathedral Spire and Eliot Headwall on the left with the bergschrund showing below Horseshoe Rock
[Hide Photo] Cathedral Spire and Eliot Headwall on the left with the bergschrund showing below Horseshoe Rock
Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's Snow Dome 7/7/12
[Hide Photo] Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's Snow Dome 7/7/12
Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below the bergschrund 7/9/11
[Hide Photo] Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below the bergschrund 7/9/11

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Bentz
Park City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This spring did this solo. Started at TJ TH as cloud cap road wasn't open. Bivied above the snow dome, for an amazing clear night. Woke up, went straight up to the ridge through the rocks (no traverse as it was looking unstable). Tried to ski off the cooper spur route but it hadn't softened up enough so I went down the south side. AMAZING skiing straight from the top. Dec 15, 2013
Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Whats the Crevase situation on this route. I'm thinking about doing the cooper spur and coming down this route.. Is doing this without a rope team safe like the south side or am I asking to get swallowed up.. probably going late June May 23, 2014
Katie McKinstry
[Hide Comment] katieamckinstry.blogspot.co…

If you are looking for a route up Hood and bypassing all of the other climbers and getting some insanely amazing views this is the route for you. SO glad we chose this route rather than the regular. More info in my blog link above. Aug 31, 2017