Avg: 4 from 4 votes
Routes in Mt. Hood
|Cooper Spur T X|
|Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 PG13|
|Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3|
|Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3|
|Leuthold Couloir T|
|North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow R|
|Ravine T WI3 M4|
|Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow|
|Sandy Glacier Headwall T PG13|
|South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13|
|West Crater Rim Route (WCR)|
|Wy'East Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||May 12, 2012 (Anastasia Blagoveshchenskaya, and Vitaliy Musiyenko)|
|Page Views:||4,087 total, 60/month|
|Shared By:||SirTobyThe3rd on May 21, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionRoute starts out with easy ice and progresses to a steep and a little overhanging bulge (crux). When we climbed it, the bulge did not have great placements for feet and required some fun moves to be passed. Ice flow was thick and offered solid protection opportunities. I was also able to place a # 1 BD Camalot (Red) and # 3 Metolious (orange). Aside from these two placements I did not see other opportunities for rock pro. After the bulge is passed, follow more fun ice till you reach the snow couloir. It is a full pitch with about 50M of fun ice climbing in a superb setting. Belay from snow pickets in the couloir (which is not as steep as it looks from Cathedral ridge).
Follow the couloir right and over. Solo, simul solo, or belay from the top. Join the North Face route and continue to the Summit.
LocationThe route goes straight up and to the right of the Cathedral Spire. Prominent snow couloir partly comes into sun and produces a water ice flow on the steep wall bellow it.
To approach, traverse towards Cathedral Spire bellow Eliot headwall or hike up the glacier passing the shrund.
It could easily be done as a car to car climb. Good cardio day, great alpine setting, with a pitch of superb climbing...and NO LINE!