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Routes in Mt. Hood

Black Spider - Three Little Monkeys (Burkhardt-Getlin) T WI4+ M5- Steep Snow X
Cooper Spur T Mod. Snow X
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation AI2-3 PG13
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Right Variation AI2-3 Mod. Snow
Elliot Glacier Headwall 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Flying Buttress (DKH V3) AI2 Mod. Snow
Leuthold Couloir T Mod. Snow
North Face Right Gully T WI3+ Mod. Snow
Ravine T WI3 M4 Mod. Snow
Reid Glacier Headwall AI3 Steep Snow
Sandy Glacier Headwall T Mod. Snow PG13
South Side Route T Easy Snow PG13
Sunshine Route Mod. Snow
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) Steep Snow
Wy'East 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,555 total · 45/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Wy' East route begins at Timberline Lodge. Ascend up the climbers trail to the top of the Palmer Chair Lift and then head east, across the White River Glacier. Crevasses are present on this portion of the climb, so roping up is a good idea. When you get across, head up the moraine to reach the top of the ridge. Follow the ridgeline until you get to the outcropping of rocks at the top.
Once here, go around right and up through a chute (40 degrees). Follow this until you get back onto the ridge roughly 400 feet up. Continue on this ridge, which is the top of the Steel Cliffs (the Devils Kitchen lies at the bottom of where you regain the ridge).
Continue on this ridge, which is somewhat exposed, until you move up either a right leaning snow ramp or exposed rock. You will encounter a small downclimb that, if frozen, should be relatively straight forward.
This portion of the climb is exposed. Traverse up and right, following the base of a large rock formation. Once around, follow a chute (between 50 and 55 degrees) to the summit ridge, and then up to the summit.
If you do the route late in the season expect a lot of rock fall and rotten rock to climb. The route finding should be fairly obvious earlier in the season, but later in the season it can be tricky...just follow the path of least resistance.

Location

Start from Timberline Lodge.
Descend the standard route.

Protection

Pickets, Ice Axe, Extra Tool, Crampons, HELMET.

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