Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,519 total · 211/month
Shared By: S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…

1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.

Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.

Location

Center area of Red Wall. Start is next to Super Slab.

Protection

Bolts. Take about 16 draws.

Photos