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Routes in (u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 26,142 total · 214/month |
| Shared By: | S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.
Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…
1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.
2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.
3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.
4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.
Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by
The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.
Link to the topo: web.archive.org/web/2015090…
1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.
2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.
3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.
4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.
Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by
The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.
Photos
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