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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,047 total · 181/month
Shared By: S. Eppes on Sep 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Original information was sent to SmithRock.com from Ted Stahl and was edited by Mike Volk:
Mike Reusse and I completed the climb [Dirty Pinkos] last summer but were hesitant to post until it was cleaned further. I think it is a great adventure route. Similar in rock quality to "Wherever I May Roam" when it was first put up. The crux of the route is on the second pitch. The third pitch is a 120' traverse and goes at 5.8. Leader and follower need to be strong on 5.8. The fourth pitch is slabby 5.5 to a vertical 5.8 move getting off the climb.

Link to the topo:
smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/Dirty%20Pinkos%>>>

1st Pitch - Thin moves at the start leads to fun slab climbing up the outside corner next to the start of Super Slab. Use the anchors for SS or Animal Farm.

2nd Pitch- Strait up from the SS anchors, clip a bolt and head up through some blocks and on to the face. Follow the bolt line up to a set of chains.

3rd Pitch-Traverse right across a cool gully filled with neon lichen and up to a ledge with two bolts. Airy and fun.

4th Pitch- Follow the bolt line up the slab to a steep finish. This pitch has the most loose rock. You could probably finish via Gulag Archipelago as well. Don't use the gully as rockfall would be very dangerous for people at the base.

Walk off or you might be able to rappel one of the other routes near by

The climb is mostly solid and will clean up nicely once its seen more ascents.

Location

Center area of Red Wall. Start is next to Super Slab.

Protection

Bolts. Take about 16 draws.
Suzanne Wilson 1
Placentia, California
Suzanne Wilson 1   Placentia, California
What a spectacular route!!! The third pitch traverse was airy and exposed and made for some great pictures. I'd recommend helmets as there was enough loose rock. Descent is off the back along a path that joins in to Misery Ridge. Super easy descent. Oct 15, 2013
BSwett
Bend, Or.
 
BSwett   Bend, Or.
 
Super creative line. Thanks guys for putting this thing up. Surprisingly clean considering the lack of traffic. I'd say you need more like 14+ draws, not 12.... And some long ones for the traverse will help with rope drag.
Also, when in doubt on the second pitch, go for the left hand bolt line. Oct 25, 2013
Anastasia B
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Anastasia B   Portland, OR
  5.9+
Great route! Used 16 draws on the P3 traverse. We linked it up with the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipalago. May 23, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Just climbed this yesterday. Very nice route. Extremely safe with tons of bolts. The first three pitches all felt 5.8 or easier. The very last couple moves felt like 5.9, especially if you were shorter. The holds are all quite hollow/questionable right at the end as well. There is a bolt right where you would want it at poor rock section, so even if a hold were to break the fall wouldn't be very far. The entire rest of the climb had very good rock quality, so it really just about 6 feet at the very top that is questionable rock.

If you don't want to link the 3rd pitch into Gulag Archipelago, you definitely don't need 16 draws. Also, 3 or 4 shoulder slings are very helpful for the 3rd pitch to reduce rope drag through the gully. If I do it again and not link, I would bring probably 10 draws and 4 slings, plus anchor building materials.

We didn't do it, but it seems like you should be able to link the first two with a 70, and maybe even with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the finish on Gulag is easy with a 60. Linking the 3rd into the 4th of Dirty Pinkos is much shorter than a 60, but the sharp turn makes for very bad rope drag. Sep 8, 2014
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
  5.8
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
  5.8
Got to disagree with all the praise for this route. It is safely bolted and does follow a cool line, but the loose and hollow rock on it is plentiful. I was lucky enough to climb it on a weekday and was intentionally cleaning minifridge sized blocks off this route on the lower pitches while I could still see that it was clear below. The upper pitches also need a great deal of cleaning for both lichen and bad rock.

I'd give it 1 star, an "OK" rating, and at most 5.8 in difficulty. It should get better over the years. Apr 4, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Bryan - are you sure you were on the same route? I just climbed it again yesterday and its exactly as I remember it from last summer. There were definitely no minifridge sized blocks that could possibly be trundled last summer or yesterday.

Not much lichen on it. After climbing it for a second time, I think what I wrote last summer is still accurate - its really only the last maybe 8 feet that have poor quality rock. Everything else on the climb is quite solid.

That said, if you link the last pitch into the 4th pitch of Gulag Archipelago, then that pitch has some loose blocks that need to be trundled. Its a shame because the climbing is much better on that 4th pitch and would be the best finish, but until the loose crap on that pitch is cleaned I'm not sure I would recommend it. Apr 22, 2015
Great route! The traverse and pulling up over the final pitch were pretty fun. Rock quality was good overall. Pitch 2 had some small loose stuff on it, so belayers beware. Pitch 2 also gets pretty run out initially, although the runout section is basically just clambering over boulders and pretty simple, but definitely would not want to fall. Pretty cool to have the option to top out the final pitch of Gulag if you want some extra exposure. Sep 29, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.9
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.9
The majority of the bolt hangers on this route are positioned incorrectly. The are about 30-45 degrees off vertical and will load a carabiner more towards its nose (the weaker side) and not along the spine, especially smaller biners. These should be reset by loosening the hanger and ensuring the clipping hole is positioned vertically. If anyone knows the guys who set the route please ask them to go fix this issue. There is plenty of information available on proper bolt hanger orientation from the manufacturers of the hardware.

Otherwise a fun route, good varied climbing. Pitch 2 has good thoughtful sequences and is well protected. So is the traverse, lots of bolts. The last pitch has a spicy ending. Oct 4, 2015
Liz Sias
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Liz Sias   Portland, OR
  5.9+
REALLY fun route. This is definitely my favorite moderate multi-pitch sport route at Smith now. I'd say the final moves at the top of pitch 4 are at least 5.9+, not 5.8 as the description says. Oct 28, 2015
tsherry
Portland, OR
  5.9
tsherry   Portland, OR
  5.9
WOW! Such a fun route. My buddy and I were sitting at the base of Super Slab waiting for shade when this route was suggested to us by a passing climber. So glad they did. This route is incredibly fun with a ton of great moves. Every hold is there. It was almost like the rock was reading my mind and giving me the holds I needed...
"hmm, a sidepull would be nice." BOOM. Sidepull.

Highly recommend this route. I don't know if 16 draws were required, but we brought a ton. Used alpine draws for the traverse and helped with drag. Jun 26, 2016
Phildlm
 
Phildlm  
 
We did the route this weekend (October 2016) as two parties of two, 2 guys, 2 gals. Great route - highly recommended! I'm a 5.10+, 5.11- climber, but here was my assessment of the ratings, and I think we all agreed as a group which included mostly 5.10 climbers.
Pitch 1 = 5.7-5.8
Pitch 2 = 5.10a possibly due to the exposure and bolts being placed so far left. Note there's a hanging belay at this anchor.
Pitch 3 = 5.6 traverse. Super fun and unique for Smith.
Pitch 4 = 5.easy except for the last four moves which go at 5.10a also possibly due to exposure. But that said, the moves are well bolted.

We didn't find any loose rock. It seems to be cleaning up nicely. 16 draws useful if you want to clip all the traverse bolts (and you probably should). Oct 10, 2016
S. Saunders  
 
Kudos to the FA's on putting up this creative route. Super fun, super safe, and super awesome position. The traverse, while very mellow, added a lot to the character of the route, and added a bit more time off the ground.

The crux pitches had a few solid, sweet 9 moves, but nothing harder.

The exit move was cool, and the rock quality wasn't as bad as I was expecting.

The first pitch can be a bit of a cluster with traffic on super slab, but you'll quickly leave them once you cast off on p2. Nov 9, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Just a note for anyone who read Topher's bolting comment, he is wrong. Hangers should be angled so that the edge the biner loads is in line with the bolt.

mountainproject.com/forum/t… Apr 20, 2017
Byron Igoe  
 
Walk-off Beta: After topping out, walk left (toward Picnic Lunch) a little until you can scramble up another 10 feet. Now walk right to pass a signpost and meet up with the obvious trail down. Jun 5, 2017
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
  5.10a
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
  5.10a
Compared to some of the other climbs at Smith, this is a 5.10. Great route, creative, and wonderful position. But a couple moves on it that are harder than 5.9. Oct 11, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
I thought the first pitch was 5.8, second 10a, third 5.6, fourth 5.9.

The first pitch spits you out at the Animal Farm anchors, but you will want to step right to the Super Slab anchors and go straight up from there.

Second is fun technical face climbing. Semi-hanging belay at the top of this pitch.

The traverse is the money pitch. Several slings are helpful when stepping down/across the gully. This ends at a ledge with the fourth pitch of Gulag a little further to your right. Looks fun and exposed and as noted previously could be linked with the traverse.

Fourth pitch cuts back left and up, and is mostly easy-5th with some super-juggy overhanging moves at the end. Rock quality is stellar.

If rapping to the ground (much faster without congestion), you must make a short rappel from the upper ledge down to the Super Slab rappel ledge. This is located climber's left of the top-out anchors and has red-and-white tape on it. From the Super Slab rappel, a 70m rope requires some easy down-climbing to get to the Animal Farm / Super Slab midway ledge. Thankfully the Super Slab ledge is super-spacious. If you do walk-off, it is much easier than the one for Super Slab (gully scramble). Feb 5, 2018
Nick Giles
Corvallis
  5.10a
Nick Giles   Corvallis
  5.10a
Of all the sport multi pitches at smith under 10a, this was by far my favorite. Thought the second pitch was a 10a, but other than that agreed with the OP. 2nd and third pitch were definitely the best parts and make for some sweet pictures. Traverse never felt that exposed or airy, there's practically a bolt every move. Walk off takes you through my favorite area in the park. Mar 27, 2018
Joshua Miller
Juneau, AK
 
Joshua Miller   Juneau, AK
 
Climbed this route the day after climbing Wherever I May Roam, and I thought it was a way better climb. Way more interesting movement and features on solid rock. Each pitch had something different to offer from crimpy slab climbing to the steep boulders finish. Plus, someone had taken a shit in the alcove on the third pitch of WIMR... Apr 21, 2018
steveox
Bend, Oregon
steveox   Bend, Oregon
Does anyone know ... is P2 the same as the old "Red Rover"? Jun 30, 2018
There's a fairly large chunk of stone I accidentally loosened to the right of the bolt line on Pitch 2. It's not actually on route, but is about 10 feet above the first bolt while scrambling over the blocks and 5-10 feet to the right of the bolt line (I was off to the side making sure I knew where the next bolt was). I left a chalk X on it, but it's precariously positioned and if knocked loose it would fall onto the first pitch of Super Slab. Please be careful as it's extremely loose! 6 days ago · Temporary Report

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