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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell
Page Views: 1,259 total · 13/month
Shared By: Rod J. on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Start on top of the 15' boulder around the corner from the start of Super Slab. 1st crux is right off the block. Use a stick clip if there is any question about making the 1st clip - it's a long way back down to the ground. After 40' of typical Smith moves on tuff, you reach the 2nd crux (no more beta here). Finish on the East set of Super Slab anchors. You can climb SS to put up a TR. Good rock as long as you don't go too far left.

Protection

~ 7 bolts. Rings at the top.

Photos

Tim Gentry
Bozeman, MT
 
Tim Gentry   Bozeman, MT
 
The first bolt is not hard to clip, you just romp up a 5.4 slab to a massive ledge, step kind of awkwardly onto a smaller ledge, lean a little bit, and clip. Maybe it only felt that way because I have a long reach...

Also not very chossy, I only grabbed one jug that felt suspect, and there was one foothold that I would've really liked to commit to but felt iffy.

Second crux feels like 10c. Pretty sustained 5.9 / 5.10a in the middle with distinct cruxes on the bookends.

It may be a bit difficult to do if there's a lot of traffic on super slab, as it shares one of the rap anchors for super slab. Apr 23, 2017
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
  5.10b
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
  5.10b
Fun climb with some varied movements. A little choss here and there on the first couple bolts, but gives way to solid rock. Have to say this climb is growing on me. Have to agree with Erik, wish the middle section continued to the top. Mar 27, 2017
If you've got any sense, you'll look at the funky start, then at the death fall if you make a mistake, and stand on the boulder to take the first clip before climbing.

The funkiness fades rapidly from mind and the rest is fun, IMO. I was actually a bit sad when it slabbed out and finished :) Oct 3, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10
Fair bit of scary looseness on this thing. I could only recommend it if you have to climb a 5.10 and Bay of Pigs, Let's Face It, Dancing For Clams, and Phantasmagoria are all taken. Super-awkward bouldery move to romping to a single slabby move up high. Don't fall before you make the first clip, or you'll die. Sep 22, 2014
another Chad  
 
Fairly fun climbing with the occasional choss.

Chad Mar 17, 2014