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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 287 total · 5/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Oct 31, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route starts on top of a block and moves right and up along a thin crack. Gear is minimal for the first 30 feet or so. gear gets better and climbing eases until the crux at a bulge. easy climbing to an anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

In the middle of Red Ryder butress. starts on top of a ledge of the ridge that seperates misery ridge from the rest of the red ryder butress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to .75". anchors on top DO NOT have rap rings. bring webbing just in case there has been nothing slung recently.

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Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
If this is the route I think it is, I don't know about any hand jams...
Small gear is not so bad, crux comes above where a solid finger-size cam placement can be found.
Scariest part is the lichen-covered rock, this route is fun and needs more traffic! Mar 28, 2014
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
 
At this point, I can't really recall what the routes movement was like. I'll go climb it again this spring and fix the description if need be. Thanks for your recommendation Jacob. It is a good route. Mar 31, 2014
I Thought this route was very good and worth a trip over to the buttress just for it. Small nuts protect the start of crack well.

If taking it up to the 2nd anchors (which add a lot more fun climbing) bring some webbing to replace the existing stuff. When I got to the ledge the webbing was cut in half with the two rap rings laying loose on the rock. We just tied it back back together and used it but it was severely frayed. May 8, 2017

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