Type: Trad
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 331 total · 5/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Oct 31, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route starts on top of a block and moves right and up along a thin crack. Gear is minimal for the first 30 feet or so. gear gets better and climbing eases until the crux at a bulge. easy climbing to an anchor.

Location

In the middle of Red Ryder butress. starts on top of a ledge of the ridge that seperates misery ridge from the rest of the red ryder butress.

Protection

Pro to .75". anchors on top DO NOT have rap rings. bring webbing just in case there has been nothing slung recently.

Photos

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Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
If this is the route I think it is, I don't know about any hand jams...
Small gear is not so bad, crux comes above where a solid finger-size cam placement can be found.
Scariest part is the lichen-covered rock, this route is fun and needs more traffic! Mar 28, 2014
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
  5.9
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
  5.9
At this point, I can't really recall what the routes movement was like. I'll go climb it again this spring and fix the description if need be. Thanks for your recommendation Jacob. It is a good route. Mar 31, 2014
I Thought this route was very good and worth a trip over to the buttress just for it. Small nuts protect the start of crack well.

If taking it up to the 2nd anchors (which add a lot more fun climbing) bring some webbing to replace the existing stuff. When I got to the ledge the webbing was cut in half with the two rap rings laying loose on the rock. We just tied it back back together and used it but it was severely frayed. May 8, 2017