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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,786 total, 123/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

One of the finest 5.6's you'll ever do. The climbing is fantastic and the position is amazing. The first and last pitches can be rope stretchers.

Pitch 1: 5.6 This climb begins up a left facing dihedral/ramp. Follow the crack occasionally using face holds to a ledge and bolted anchors.

Pitch 2: Take a tenuous traverse left. Be careful to protect for the second here. Take this short pitch to a ledge that is almost parallel to the last belay. Natural anchor takes .5 to 1 inch

Pitch 3: Use face features to pull a short steep section and then follow the crack/seam up into another left facing dihedral to the summit.

From the top walk back away from the face descending a small slab to a grassy bowl. Then climb up another steep slab for 30ft and then continue hiking west to get to hiking trail. Once at the trail follow it down to the right.

Protection

Nuts, Cams to 3 inches
Many long slings
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Fun route, P2 traverse would be pretty full value for climbers at the grade. Pitch 3 is fun and takes nuts all over the place, plugged in purple through red C3s too. Topping out P3 in the crack on the right adds some fun variety after all that slab. Takes a #4 below fixed sling, not sure above that as I didn't place any more gear. Apr 17, 2017
Robin S
OR
 
Robin S   OR
 
I believe PhillT's comment is just worded in a confusing way because I, too, was confused. If you walk 30 feet around the large formation, you can rap down 30 feet to an anchor. From there, you can rap to the top of P1, and from there to the bottom. It takes 3 raps, but they're nicer than the walk off. A 70M will not get you down in 2 raps (learned the hard way today after misunderstanding PhillT's comment). Mar 26, 2017
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.6
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.6
The first 2 pitches are so-so but the final Super Slab itself is one of the finest 5.6 pitches you will find anywhere! Skip the loooooong walk-off and just rap down. A 60 with a tag line will get you down in 2 raps. Jun 17, 2015
Gee Rad  
You can link 2 and 3, and rap in 3 raps with a 60. Just. Jun 16, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.6
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.6
Max, you're right... I made a mistake. We reached the top of the climb and headed right to the correct anchor. I just noticed Phill T's comment to do a short rap followed by a long one to the P1 anchor. I tried to do one loooong rap to the P1 anchor from the top... almost made it, but not quite. Apr 27, 2015
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.6
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.6
I second Floyd Hayes comment above from 7/18/12. We climbed this with a single 60m and found the walk off sketchy. We chose to rope up for the down climb into the gully, belaying off a large boulder, because from up top it was hard to see the final sequences of the descent into the gully. We also roped up for the slab climb out of the gully, which is easy if you're comfortable leading 5.7 slab. The bolted anchor atop the slab can be hard to see as it is set into a small recessed area (~ 3 ft tall, 1 ft deep) running along the perimeter just after topping out from the 5.7 slab. Apr 27, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This route is easily descended with a 70 (or 60 if I remember correctly) as described by PhillT above. If you're building anchors, then you're doing something wrong. (either you rapped from the wrong anchors to begin with or you missed an intermediate station) Remember, you don't descend the actual line of ascent for the upper half of the descent. Apr 8, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.6
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.6
These pitches are not rope stretchers. Learn from my mistake and do not try to rap with a 70m... You will not make it down without building an intermediate anchor to belay a down climb off of! Apr 4, 2015
Muscrat    
Fun line to climb by the light of the moon. Make it exciting..use only nuts. Dec 14, 2014
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
 
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
 
The "Top Out" was pretty tricky, climbing out of the gully is certainly an actual rock climb. It seemed more sketchy getting down into the gully than climbing out of it. Approach shoes and an solid spotter at a minimum, skip the flip flops.. - short rope it and belay your partner up if you feel like being extra safe. There are a couple of places for gear and bolts at the top. May 6, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
I thought the first few moves of pitch 3, which can be protected with a monster #5 BD cam, were the crux (stiff for 5.6). If walking off, the class 4 downclimb and 5.7 exit gully are neither trivial nor unexposed--a tumble from either would really hurt! The short but fun "unprotected" crux in the exit gully CAN be protected with gear (there is a small lieback crack) and a two-bolt anchor at the top can be used to belay your partner(s), which I discovered after free-soloing it. The scenic Misery Ridge Trail was easy to find and descend--just keep heading uphill to the right and you can't miss it. Jul 18, 2012
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
no need to take two ropes, a single 70 will get you down fine. Walk around the big block at the summit climbers right, use those rap anchors and go to the chains 30 feet down and 20 feet to climbers right. This will put you at the top of P1 where a 70 gets you down fine. Fun route, but not quite a 4 star classic the book suggests. You can easily link p2 and 3 with a 70. May 18, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.6
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.6
The "walk-off" is sh!t. Exponentially more so if you've got anything on your back. Don't do it. The top 50 feet of this route make up for the trudge that is the first pitch, and the precarious semi-protectable traverse. May 1, 2012
bevans  
lol hartiga. nope. Nov 29, 2010
Hey Bevans, Were you the one that got suck up there last weekend? If so what happened?? Nov 10, 2010
bevans  
Despite the route description above, the first and last pitches are not rope stretchers. Nov 9, 2010
DWech
Fort Collins
5.6
DWech   Fort Collins
5.6
If you don't have two ropes, head for the belay station as described, but turn left, descend onto a shelf that angles down into a gully. At the head of this gully is a concave slab with dark water-streaks. Friction-climb that (unprotected 5.5) to an exit at the top of the gully, then follow your nose (up) until you intersect the Misery Ridge Trail. Hike down. Even with the longer walk-off, it's still not Grade III. Jun 1, 2010
Plaidman
Portland, Oregon
Plaidman   Portland, Oregon
Be careful of the hollow flakes on the first pitch. It reminded me of climbing in Garden of The Gods in Colorado. Pull down not out and they may hold. May 17, 2009
Stephen Davis
  5.6
Stephen Davis  
  5.6
Very Fun alternative/climbing warm up to the misery ridge trail up and over, you pass right by this so why not do this instead of the crappy slippery hike? May 19, 2008
Grade III? The route is very straightforward and I would guess that the only reason the commitment would be III is if there are 16 people waiting at the belay ledge. Really fun route for a mellow few hours. The second pitch takes nuts very well. Oct 31, 2007
Mattyg
Bend, OR
  5.6
Mattyg   Bend, OR
  5.6
A great rap station has been set up just to the North from the top of the route. Take TWO ropes, as you will need them to rap to the top of the first pitch, then another rap gets you to the ground. Jul 31, 2006