Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 35,459 total · 220/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 with improvements by Kyle Tarry
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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This is a fun 5.6 multipitch. The climbing is fantastic and the position is amazing

Pitch 1: 5.6 This climb begins up a left facing dihedral/ramp. Follow the crack occasionally using face holds to a ledge and bolted anchors.  Approximately 35 meters.

Pitch 2: Take a tenuous traverse left. Be careful to protect for the second here. Take this short pitch to a ledge that is almost parallel to the last belay. Natural anchor takes 1-1.5".  Approximately 20 meters.

Pitch 3: Use face features to pull a short steep section and then follow the crack/seam up into another left facing dihedral to the summit.  Approximately 35 meters.

From the top walk back away from the face descending a small slab to a grassy bowl. Then climb up another steep slab for 30ft and then continue hiking west to get to hiking trail. Once at the trail follow it down to the right.


Nuts, Cams to 3 inches
Many long slings
Bend, OR
Mattyg   Bend, OR
A great rap station has been set up just to the North from the top of the route. Take TWO ropes, as you will need them to rap to the top of the first pitch, then another rap gets you to the ground. Jul 31, 2006
Grade III? The route is very straightforward and I would guess that the only reason the commitment would be III is if there are 16 people waiting at the belay ledge. Really fun route for a mellow few hours. The second pitch takes nuts very well. Oct 31, 2007
Stephen Davis
Stephen Davis  
Very Fun alternative/climbing warm up to the misery ridge trail up and over, you pass right by this so why not do this instead of the crappy slippery hike? May 19, 2008
Portland, Oregon
Plaidman   Portland, Oregon
Be careful of the hollow flakes on the first pitch. It reminded me of climbing in Garden of The Gods in Colorado. Pull down not out and they may hold. May 17, 2009
Fort Collins
DWech   Fort Collins
If you don't have two ropes, head for the belay station as described, but turn left, descend onto a shelf that angles down into a gully. At the head of this gully is a concave slab with dark water-streaks. Friction-climb that (unprotected 5.5) to an exit at the top of the gully, then follow your nose (up) until you intersect the Misery Ridge Trail. Hike down. Even with the longer walk-off, it's still not Grade III. Jun 1, 2010
Despite the route description above, the first and last pitches are not rope stretchers. Nov 9, 2010
Hey Bevans, Were you the one that got suck up there last weekend? If so what happened?? Nov 10, 2010
lol hartiga. nope. Nov 29, 2010
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The "walk-off" is sh!t. Exponentially more so if you've got anything on your back. Don't do it. The top 50 feet of this route make up for the trudge that is the first pitch, and the precarious semi-protectable traverse. May 1, 2012
Phill T
Phill T  
no need to take two ropes, a single 70 will get you down fine. Walk around the big block at the summit climbers right, use those rap anchors and go to the chains 30 feet down and 20 feet to climbers right. This will put you at the top of P1 where a 70 gets you down fine. Fun route, but not quite a 4 star classic the book suggests. You can easily link p2 and 3 with a 70. May 18, 2012
Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
I thought the first few moves of pitch 3, which can be protected with a monster #5 BD cam, were the crux (stiff for 5.6). If walking off, the class 4 downclimb and 5.7 exit gully are neither trivial nor unexposed--a tumble from either would really hurt! The short but fun "unprotected" crux in the exit gully CAN be protected with gear (there is a small lieback crack) and a two-bolt anchor at the top can be used to belay your partner(s), which I discovered after free-soloing it. The scenic Misery Ridge Trail was easy to find and descend--just keep heading uphill to the right and you can't miss it. Jul 18, 2012
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
The "Top Out" was pretty tricky, climbing out of the gully is certainly an actual rock climb. It seemed more sketchy getting down into the gully than climbing out of it. Approach shoes and an solid spotter at a minimum, skip the flip flops.. - short rope it and belay your partner up if you feel like being extra safe. There are a couple of places for gear and bolts at the top. May 6, 2013
Fun line to climb by the light of the moon. Make it exciting..use only nuts. Dec 14, 2014
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
These pitches are not rope stretchers. Learn from my mistake and do not try to rap with a 70m... You will not make it down without building an intermediate anchor to belay a down climb off of! Apr 4, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This route is easily descended with a 70 (or 60 if I remember correctly) as described by PhillT above. If you're building anchors, then you're doing something wrong. (either you rapped from the wrong anchors to begin with or you missed an intermediate station) Remember, you don't descend the actual line of ascent for the upper half of the descent. Apr 8, 2015
Fan Zhang
Silver Spring, MD
Fan Zhang   Silver Spring, MD
I second Floyd Hayes comment above from 7/18/12. We climbed this with a single 60m and found the walk off sketchy. We chose to rope up for the down climb into the gully, belaying off a large boulder, because from up top it was hard to see the final sequences of the descent into the gully. We also roped up for the slab climb out of the gully, which is easy if you're comfortable leading 5.7 slab. The bolted anchor atop the slab can be hard to see as it is set into a small recessed area (~ 3 ft tall, 1 ft deep) running along the perimeter just after topping out from the 5.7 slab. Apr 27, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
Max, you're right... I made a mistake. We reached the top of the climb and headed right to the correct anchor. I just noticed Phill T's comment to do a short rap followed by a long one to the P1 anchor. I tried to do one loooong rap to the P1 anchor from the top... almost made it, but not quite. Apr 27, 2015
Gee Rad  
You can link 2 and 3, and rap in 3 raps with a 60. Just. Jun 16, 2015
Bountiful, UT
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
The first 2 pitches are so-so but the final Super Slab itself is one of the finest 5.6 pitches you will find anywhere! Skip the loooooong walk-off and just rap down. A 60 with a tag line will get you down in 2 raps. Jun 17, 2015
Robin S
Robin S   OR
I believe PhillT's comment is just worded in a confusing way because I, too, was confused. If you walk 30 feet around the large formation, you can rap down 30 feet to an anchor. From there, you can rap to the top of P1, and from there to the bottom. It takes 3 raps, but they're nicer than the walk off. A 70M will not get you down in 2 raps (learned the hard way today after misunderstanding PhillT's comment). Mar 26, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Fun route, P2 traverse would be pretty full value for climbers at the grade. Pitch 3 is fun and takes nuts all over the place, plugged in purple through red C3s too. Topping out P3 in the crack on the right adds some fun variety after all that slab. Takes a #4 below fixed sling, not sure above that as I didn't place any more gear. Apr 17, 2017
Jeff The Grump
Columbia river gorge
Jeff The Grump   Columbia river gorge
NOTE: If you rap off with a single rope and use the anchors that are 30ft below (climbers right), you are using the anchors to the route next door, dirty pinkos. Be sure that the route is open before you get in someone’s way. Also, your rope will probably get stuck in the boulders on the 2nd pitch of dirty pinkos. It’s happened to me twice. Jun 15, 2018
Isaac   Portland
I actually found p1 to be the most enjoyable of the (2.5). The p2 traverse is tricky... no way around it. I've tried staying high and I've tried going low. I slightly prefer the lower option as the climbing is easier going up the huecos. Rappelling down is definitely the way to go. Just be sure not to miss the first station as you're rapping down from the top, as it is several feet climbers right. If anyone can figure out a way to NOT get the rope stuck on the second rap, my hat is off to you. Like Jeff, I am also 2/2 getting it stuck on the boulder. Luckily, it's easy to navigate in approach shoes and correct. Just be careful when scrambling underneath to avoid kicking shale on parties coming up. Jul 4, 2018
Ian RRR  
Only placed one cam to protect the traverse pitch perhaps I missed something?!

For descent: short walk around to the north to the anchor for Amphetamine Grip / 'Til the Cows Come Home for a double-rope rappel to the P1 ledge. There are two rap anchors to choose from if it's busy and that'll get you down to the base. So that's one double-rope rappel and then a single rope rappel to get you down safely. Sep 16, 2018
Vancouver, WA
NatejWeber   Vancouver, WA
Definitely a route to do in warm weather. If you go early, it stays in the shade most of the day. When we did it in Oct, it was difficult to stay warm until the summit.

P1 is straight forward. A Right-to-left ramp with a crack that takes good gear and nuts. Plenty of rest stops and face holds. Pull over a small bulge to anchors at a flat station.

P2 is a very short, but at first sketch-looking traverse to the bottom of P3 about 40 feet to climber’s left of the P1 anchors. Climb up a few feet where you can see the smooth, worn away steps of climbers past, then start traversing. I was able to get a nut and then about 10ft more, a .4 in. After that, you have no choice but to carefully negotiate the bulge and step over onto the ledge, in a little cove where P3 starts. Natural anchor but I just slung the top of a large block.

P3 gets vertical, following the left crack. If you are paranoid, you can slot in a 4.5 at the start, or just finangle a little OW body language. Once you get past the wider part, it’s a nice vertical hand and finger crack system that takes nice placements. Nuts do well here. Plenty of rest stops and good knobs to yank on. As you see the right crack widen, you can go on either side of the detached block with two sets of anchors to choose from: left side is easier, taking a #3 (avoid the old, sketch tricam) or the right is face climbing around a tiny splitter crack where stemming comes in handy.

At the summit. go to climbers left around the large block and you’ll see a pair of fresh rap rings. Approach carefully as the drop to your left is significant. This is for sure a two-rope rap. We hauled up a small 7.3, but luckily ran into another party behind us and we shared ropes. This gets you to the P1 anchors. There are other anchors to the left that get you to the deck and avoid any parties on P1.

The climbing is pretty relaxed for the experienced, and what I would imagine a good lead for an aspiring trad leader. It was my partner’s first multipitch and they enjoyed it immensely. The climbing is slightly easier than neighboring Moscow and significantly less windy. Oct 14, 2018