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Routes in (u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Helter Skelter Direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | FA Avary Tichner, Aug 1978 FFA Jeff Thomas, Ken Currens, Oct 28, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,710 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Johnny Y on Oct 9, 2014 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Climb up a steep arching corner crack on good finger jams. The crux for me was a brief section of flaring thin hand with no feet, some intense stemming or back stepping may help. Foot holds start appearing after the undercling, but watch out for animal poops at the jug. Pull the final roof on hand jams to two 1/4" bolt. Walk off.
Warning: Lot's of lose rocks at the top! A baseball sized chunk flew down as far as the stairs as we pulled the rope. Maybe that's how the route was named? Climbers who don't like to wear helmet please stay away.
Warning: Lot's of lose rocks at the top! A baseball sized chunk flew down as far as the stairs as we pulled the rope. Maybe that's how the route was named? Climbers who don't like to wear helmet please stay away.
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