Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: FA Avary Tichner, Aug 1978 FFA Jeff Thomas, Ken Currens, Oct 28, 1978
Page Views: 506 total, 13/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Oct 9, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb up a steep arching corner crack on good finger jams. The crux for me was a brief section of flaring thin hand with no feet, some intense stemming or back stepping may help. Foot holds start appearing after the undercling, but watch out for animal poops at the jug. Pull the final roof on hand jams to two 1/4" bolt. Walk off.

Warning: Lot's of lose rocks at the top! A baseball sized chunk flew down as far as the stairs as we pulled the rope. Maybe that's how the route was named? Climbers who don't like to wear helmet please stay away.

Location

Continue walking up the Misery Ridge trail past the Red Wall and you will see an obvious arching roof/corner at the base of Red Ryder Buttress.

Protection

Gear to 2.5", a BD 3.5 may fit underneath the wide undercling slot.

Photos

Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
I was glad to have cams and fired them as fast as possible in the bottom half!

The rock landed about a foot from my friend so it is now called "She Almost Died" in my book. Oct 9, 2014
A friend told me that the name came from the risky nature of the climb when lead with only passive protection (as that was all that was available at the time). I can't image climbing I Almost Died with only nuts and hexes. Yikes!

Chad Oct 9, 2014