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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA -unknown, FFA Jeff Thomas, Chris Jones, Alan Watts -July 21, 1979
Page Views: 1,588 total · 11/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This underated climb is a fine outing that can be done as two pitches or as one long pitch with a 60m rope. The crux comes where you expect on the brilliant 2nd pitch dihedral.

Pitch 1: Begin to the right of Ride the Lightning in a left facing dihedral up to the base of the book.

Pitch 2: Use stemming, palming, fingerstacks to make your way up the perfect corner. You'll be wishing there was more.

Location [Suggest Change]

Rap with two ropes.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts and cams to one inch. Bolted anchor at top.

Photos

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
The first "pitch" is basically 5.5 choss that doesn't take much, if any, solid gear. Nov 12, 2013

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