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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ted Stahl and Mike Reusse
Page Views: 1,637 total · 26/month
Shared By: S. Eppes on Aug 25, 2013 with updates from Ben Strickland
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first pitch of a 4 pitch climb called Dirty Pinkos that goes at 5.9+. Here is a link to a topo of the complete climb. smithrock.com/b2evolution/m…

Slab climb up the outside corner next to the first pitch of Super Slab. Thin moves at the start leads to a funky move over a bulge and an easy finish.

Location

Next to Super Slab Start. Look for the first bolt in the dark section of rock left of the SS crack

Protection

Approx 10 bolts. Use the anchors for Super slab or Animal Farm

Photos

- No Photos -
10 bolts, not 6. Our leader took a "safe overstock" of 9 draws but bolts 7-10 are out of view from the 6th so she came down unable to find the rest. Route was completed once we climbed Animal Farm next door and scoped the bolts, but that "approx 6" must have been spotted from the ground, and poorly. Sep 1, 2015
Ryan Bowen
Bend, Or
 
Ryan Bowen   Bend, Or
 
Rope drag kinda sucks, and bolt placement didn't follow the line my untrained eye liked. That being said, I thought it was great. One hollow flake by the 3rd or so bolt, but other than that, it was rock (pun intended) solid. There was a line on super slab and dirty pinkos, so we just did the first pitch. I look forward to linking up the rest of the climb. May 1, 2017
Devin Bishop
  5.7
Devin Bishop  
  5.7
Nothing special. I guess if you can’t climb gear routes and just came from Planite Granite in Portland you would find it exciting. Otherwise it’s a questionable addition to such a fine wall. Apr 6, 2018
Definitely 100 feet. It was a rope stretch to get back down to the ground from the SS anchors Apr 26, 2018
Matt Soria
Chcago, IL
  5.8+
Matt Soria   Chcago, IL
  5.8+
Can confirm xcrag-corex — just climbed it with a 70 meter rope and the rope just reached the bottom from the anchors at the ledge. May 5, 2018

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