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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Jim Ablao, '03
Page Views: 1,445 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on May 28, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Pull through some traverse moves on good holds to the first bolt, then enjoy technical climbing on edges and pockets for about 60 feet up to a roof. Massive jugs and an easy pull await you. Run it out above the roof on the right to the last bolt and another move before the first pitch anchor. The first pitch gets a 5.10c rating.

The second pitch goes at 5.10d and brings you up to the top of the wall.

Location [Edit]

Left end of the Red Wall, just right of the short wall containing Dances with Clams

Protection [Edit]

Pitch 1 - 12 bolts
Pitch 2 - 13 bolts

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Jeff Hebert
Seattle, WA
 
Jeff Hebert   Seattle, WA
 
I only climbed the first pitch and was just barely able to stretch a 60m rope to the ground. Another group went up the second pitch ahead of us and said it was phenomenal. May 29, 2012
super fun Jun 17, 2012
Drederek
  5.10c
Drederek  
  5.10c
I'm not sure why this would get an R rating, nothing too scary here. Oct 4, 2012
pdxuller  
 
I don't understand why this is rated as 4 stars in the Alan Watts guide. The rock quality on the second pitch is terrible and the movement is less than intuitive. Pebbles are everywhere and many sections have rock that you can just flake off the wall with minimal force. Both belays are hanging belays.

The R rating is due to the clipping position on bolt #2 on the second pitch, in which a fall would make you deck on the large ledge to the right of the belay anchors. This section just got slightly more difficult this weekend when the only jug broke off (hand for first clip, foot for second).

I'd do the first pitch again, but if I wanted to top out Red Wall I'd do Orgasmagoria, which is a far superior multi. Oct 21, 2013
Climbed the first pitch and tried rapping with a 60m rope. Maybe my rope is short, but the ends were about 15' off the ground. Use a 70m to be safe. Mar 28, 2016
Capple
 
Capple  
 
Amazing first pitch. Would recommend a helmet for your belayer due to loose bits at the top. Look forward to getting on the second pitch at some point. May 6, 2016
Kyle vH
 
Kyle vH  
 
70m just barely reaches on rappel. Not sure why there is confusion on this. The first bolt was too high for our sick clip but it's 5.6 to get up there and your belayer can easily spot you.

Really fun climbing; pretty and technical face broken up by a few rests to an easy, juggy roof. Our group thought the crux was pretty reachy--maybe 10d (or we didn't find the best beta). Though folks over 6' seem to be able to reach right through and keep it 10c. Lots of engaging 10a-ish climbing. Referring to 1st pitch only with all of this beta. Oct 9, 2017
Cole Morgan
Portland,Oregon
Cole Morgan   Portland,Oregon
I definitely disagree with the guide book on the quality of the second pitch. Far less intuitive and I found the first pitch much more enjoyable. That said there is some cool position on the second pitch that you don't find on the first.

Not sure If I was an idiot or if the anchors were missing on the second pitch, because I ended up running it out quite a ways to an anchor that seemed to be for an adjacent route. Cheers. Apr 5, 2018

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