Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 979 total · 16/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on May 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Great line with fantastic exposure at the top.

Start from the top of Bill's Flake ledge off to climber's left. There is some tat tied around an old pin, this is where you start.

P1: Climb up a thin seam, clipping pins and using gear when you can. The climbing will ease off; follow the easiest path along the arete to a large ledge; belay here.

P2: Climb up the obvious rightward ramp towards the distinct half-mood dihedral. Pull through the diehdral and belay at a bolted anchor on the top of it.

P3: Step left off of the anchor and use small edges to get to the base of the roof. Savor the exposure down all of Picnic Lunch and Red Walls! Make sure you let out a loud victory cry so all the tourists in the picnic area can see how rad you're getting as you pull over the roof on slightly sloping holds. Above the roof, ramble up easy 5.7 pocket climbing, clipping a pin and getting gear where you can. Fixed anchor at the top to belay from.

Descent: Either walk off the same way as you would for Super Slab, or make three raps using the following anchors: P3 of TJ > P2 of TJ > Top anchors of Phantasmagoria > ground. Raps can be done with a 60m

Location

As you hike up from the bridge, find Bill's Flake and a large grassy ledge at the base of Red Wall. It will be the first thing you hit on the Misery Ridge trail. Gear up below the ledge and scramble to the top. Find the pin with tat tied on it; this is the start of the route.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos