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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 661 total · 14/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on May 27, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Great line with fantastic exposure at the top.

Start from the top of Bill's Flake ledge off to climber's left. There is some tat tied around an old pin, this is where you start.

P1: Climb up a thin seam, clipping pins and using gear when you can. The climbing will ease off; follow the easiest path along the arete to a large ledge; belay here.

P2: Climb up the obvious rightward ramp towards the distinct half-mood dihedral. Pull through the diehdral and belay at a bolted anchor on the top of it.

P3: Step left off of the anchor and use small edges to get to the base of the roof. Savor the exposure down all of Picnic Lunch and Red Walls! Make sure you let out a loud victory cry so all the tourists in the picnic area can see how rad you're getting as you pull over the roof on slightly sloping holds. Above the roof, ramble up easy 5.7 pocket climbing, clipping a pin and getting gear where you can. Fixed anchor at the top to belay from.

Descent: Either walk off the same way as you would for Super Slab, or make three raps using the following anchors: P3 of TJ > P2 of TJ > Top anchors of Phantasmagoria > ground. Raps can be done with a 60m


As you hike up from the bridge, find Bill's Flake and a large grassy ledge at the base of Red Wall. It will be the first thing you hit on the Misery Ridge trail. Gear up below the ledge and scramble to the top. Find the pin with tat tied on it; this is the start of the route.


Gear to 2"


Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
We picked up a '94 guide on the way to Smith which is probably how we ended up making this our first route in the area not realizing how little it gets climbed. There's was no chalk on any holds in the route and some of the locals we met afterward said in 30 years of climbing in Smith, they'd still never been on the route. Anyway, p1 is scramble and dirty. P2 is cool and wandery with mild exposure. P3 is absolutely WILD!! The crux of the whole line is crazy exposed and well worth climbing the pitches below in order to get to it. We didn't need the whole rack. I think during the entire route we placed a couple nuts, clipped several fixed pins/bolts, and placed a .4, 1, and 2. Jul 11, 2017
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10b R
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10b R
Feb 3, 2018 - This route starts on the far left side of the ledge and currently has a piton about 15 feet up with an old sling tied to it. I added a photo of the start. The climbing isn't that hard but is a bit run out on P1 with marginal gear and hence results in the R rating.P2 & P3 are well protected and fun. Note that the topo in Watt's guide is a bit misleading and the two fixed pins (FP) are not in close proximity to each other but are about 30' or more apart. The topo also makes it seem like the route is mostly on the face when in fact it turns over a low angle buttress before moving through easy terrain to the belay anchor on a big ledge it shares with Dare To Be Normal, 11c. I added a pitcture of the upper pitches as seen from the base of the route and it shows where the route runs behind the buttress before reaching the anchors for pitch 2.
For pitch 2 make sure you extend the belay out far enough from the anchors to watch your leader as they start down to the right of the big ledge passing 2 bolts (one without a hanger) and then a pin (not shown on Watt's topo) before entering the arching ramp. Extending the belay will reduce rope drag. The arch can be protected with a small cam in a horizontal seam on the face before reaching the next bolt and with another cam afterwards. Super fun climbing on this pitch.
Pitch 3 will get your attention as it draws you out to the arete and great exposure, 3 good bolts lead you to the roof. After the roof you will find another fixed pin (not on Watt's topo) and an easy short low fifth class section to the top anchors.

If you don't want the R rated option then do the Jag Connection option which is climbing Phantasmagoria and then crossing into Titanium Jag at the arching ramp.

Camalots 0.2 - 0.75
Small & medium nuts Feb 5, 2018

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