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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Brett Yost 2003
Page Views: 2,351 total, 17/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start at the top of Phantasmagoria and climb one more long pitch to the top of the formation.

The line goes through some suspect rock but has fun moves, great exposure, and is well protected.

Rap down Super Slab with two ropes.

Location

Left of Dancing with Clams above Phantasmagoria.

Protection

13 bolts and an anchor

Photos

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Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a
This was rated 10a by the FA party - including myself. I have not been on it in more than 10 years but at the time, the first pitch Phantasmagoria was rated 10b. It seemed pretty pretty spot on at that grade compared to the trade 10b faces on the front side. The Orgasmophoria pitch seemed decidedly easier. One of the FA party even considered it 5.9 but consensus pretty rapidly converged on 10a .

I have since seen this route called "the softest rating" of any pitch at Smith. I just want to be clear that the FA party is not responsible for this grade creep. Mar 1, 2015
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
I learned an obvious lesson climbing with a buddy who had done this route before a few weeks ago (even after 14 years). Led the first pitch, he wasn't feeling good about the second after the third bolt, so I lowered and finished it for him. Definitely a fairly large and seemingly not-quite-solid flake required to pull on after the 3rd bolt, second pitch, kind of spooky, but employed desert tactics. It's going to go, maybe not soon, but some day.

Topped out, and soon after Jim Ablao, all around rad guy shows up (who I took my SPI course from). Head over to the rapp (once again, assuming that my conservative [climbing wise] partner new what we needed for the descent), tossed our rope down and went, 'shit'. 20' off.

Jim offered us his tag-line, then realized we could just fix our rope and he could untie and drop it, which he did (THANKS JIM). I asked, before hand, if this could possibly, negatively affect future AMGA tests. He laughed whole-heartedly, which was the response I hoped for.

JIM IS THE MAN. And this route is spectacular.

Never assume that your 'experienced' partner knows better. Regardless of your respect for their past accomplishements. Jul 10, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I literally just climbed this route and have gone up and down Super Slab every way imaginable so let me clarify some myths here in the comments:

"I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again." Paul is spot on. You could even protect these moves if you wanted to with small to medium wires or cams. NBD.

If rappelling: "...bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab." Not true. I just rapped this with one rope. The first rap is short to a new-ish anchor about 20-30' down on the climber's right.

"That chossy downclimb to the superslab first anchors is ugly and potentially deadly." This is easily avoided by either (a) using the anchor mentioned above or (b) using the fixed sling anchor ~30m below the initial rap station to the ledge. Aug 11, 2013
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
I agree, it would be nice if rap anchors were added to this route. It's also not noted in the guidebook that the walk off is sketch and that rappelling requires a different anchor and two ropes.

I got caught in a lightning storm on this one a few days ago and was pissed to be improvising a rapid decent because of the lack of info on this route! Should have checked MP... Aug 11, 2013
pdxuller  
 
Fun 53m pitch to top out. As other comments have said, bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab ** maybe its not super slab but there are rap anchors over on the right, not far away. Do not rap the top of Orgasmaphoria - your ropes will get stuck. You can access the Super Slab rap anchors by walking right from the top of Orgasmaphoria, although they are out of view at first. Jul 31, 2013
BSwett
Bend, Or.
 
BSwett   Bend, Or.
 
Exiting those Red Wall climbs is a pain in the ass. That chossy downclimb to the superslab first anchors is ugly and potentially deadly. If I had a drill, i'd go set a safe lowering station down Orgasmophoria or Bay of Pigs. Something. Mar 16, 2013
Paul Trendler
Bend, Oregon
Paul Trendler   Bend, Oregon
I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again. I agree it is certianly faster to rap, but the walk of is not x rated at all. Jun 10, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a/b
Fun for the exposure. Mostly easier terrain, with a high crux on good holds (look left). Beware of suspect rock... there are still big pieces coming off. If you lead it, you'll probably be chatting with people coming up Super Slab. Try to beat them to the rap... or wait in line.

Attempting to walk off could very well end in disaster. Rap Super Slab instead: two ropes or a 70m+downclimb. May 1, 2012
I watched a party get stuck on this route by trying to rap. The top anchor is not set up for rappelling and if it were the rap would require two ropes.

The party I watched struggle had the leader climb the second pitch and attempt to rap back to his partner anchored in atop the first pitch. After threading the bolts up top the leader rapped with one rope and found himself far from the anchor with a stuck rope and a stranded partner. Sep 18, 2006