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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mike Hartley and Jim Anglin 1979 F.F.A. Alan Lester 1979
Page Views: 980 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This one's got a bit o' everything!

Start out in stepped rock just below Chairman Mao and climb up and into a funky crack system that quickly steepens and leads to some good jams. Follow the crack up through a blunt arete feature then follow it through a dramatic hand traverse left with little or no feet on the slab below. When the crack peters out power straight up the face (pumpy) past a bolt to a ledge with an anchor.

Belay from the top and rap with a 60m or climb and lower with a 70m.

Location

Between Super Slab and Moscow. starts just right of Chairman Mao's Little Red Book.

Protection

standard rack with extras from .5 to 1"

Photos

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Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
I would suggest triples in finger sized cams for this route because the crack is surprisingly uniform for smith and placing stances are not the best, save some for the top but don't place a piece right below the bolt as it will give you plenty of rope drag. Mar 15, 2015