Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mike Hartley and Jim Anglin 1979 F.F.A. Alan Lester 1979
Page Views: 1,093 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This one's got a bit o' everything!

Start out in stepped rock just below Chairman Mao and climb up and into a funky crack system that quickly steepens and leads to some good jams. Follow the crack up through a blunt arete feature then follow it through a dramatic hand traverse left with little or no feet on the slab below. When the crack peters out power straight up the face (pumpy) past a bolt to a ledge with an anchor.

Belay from the top and rap with a 60m or climb and lower with a 70m.

Location

Between Super Slab and Moscow. starts just right of Chairman Mao's Little Red Book.

Protection

standard rack with extras from .5 to 1"

Photos

- No Photos -
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
I would suggest triples in finger sized cams for this route because the crack is surprisingly uniform for smith and placing stances are not the best, save some for the top but don't place a piece right below the bolt as it will give you plenty of rope drag. Mar 15, 2015