All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (u) Red Wall

Burma Buttress

Name: Burma Buttress
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in (u) Red Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Helter Skelter Direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ride The Lightning S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA:	Ben Randall, Pete Keane, 2006
Page Views:	1,331 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Kevin Piarulli on Aug 20, 2018
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

A better variant to Peking's 2nd pitch climbs a nice crack then slab. Very solid for Smith tuff but some lichen keeps it interesting. The most direct start is Chouinard's Crack, passing the chains and belay on gear on a large ledge at 120 feet (hand size) or another one at 140. Climb Peking's corner past a few bulges until you see a flake crack rising onto the slab to your right. Tricky lieback in the crack then quest up 6 bolts to the top of the wall. Finish up and right on ledges to the 4th class top out. Or, go left at the top to a bolt belay on Straght Outta' Peking and climb that route with it's one blank 5.10+ arete move (bring a nut to lasso the stud of one bolt if its hanger is still missing). You could start via Let's Face It, for the full 5.10 slab adventure. There is also a single bolt linking from Moscow, about 2/3 of it's way up, directly to the bolts on Burma, bypassing the lower crack for the easiest approach.

Walk off via Misery Ridge.