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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Bauman & Osa Thatcher May 5, 1969
Page Views: 3,084 total, 23/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

First pitch is classic, many stop at first set of anchors. The upper pitch is great fun though a little loose.

P1 - 5.8 - Hand traverse left to a splitter hand crack. Follow crack up to bolted belay, belay from bolts if planning on just doing first pitch. Or continue up another 60 ft to a good belay ledge blow the P2 crux. Belay from mid sized cams.

P2 - 5.8 - Crank the awkward 5.8 bulge then head striaght up untill your rope runs out. Belay mid sized cams.

4th class scamble to top.

Location

Just to the left of Moscow.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

Frank F
Bend, OR
5.9-
Frank F   Bend, OR
5.9-
The rating for p.1 in the description for Peking ought to be the same as separately posted for Chouinard's Crack (which is p. 1). 9- is legit. May 23, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Mega loose plates waiting to come off this route. When you get to the top there is a stack of rocks piled right next to the edge. I wouldn't recommend it unless you have something against your second. Dec 22, 2015
K Baumgartner
  5.7
K Baumgartner  
  5.7
Climb the first half pitch and then link up with Moscow. The rest of Peking just isn't worth it. I didn't think the bulges after Chouniard's were any harder than 5.6+. Some fractured rock and a ton of bird doodoo. Aug 4, 2012
ferrells  
 
It seemed pretty chossy to me as well. From the ground, I saw a bunch of weeds and fractured rocks, but I thought: "It can't be that bad. Maybe it's only a short section."
I wanted to do Peking, after doing Moscow a couple weeks ago, so I climbed Chouinard's Crack (awesome), and joined Moscow for a while to avoid the crap above Chouinard's Crack. At every opportunity, I stepped left (through choss) and looked around, but never saw anything that looked worth climbing. And, yes, Moscow is quite a bit cleaner. Except for a few feet, Moscow is immaculate splitter cracks. Dec 20, 2009
Alpine Carl  
 
Yep, it was that bad: bad enough, anyway, to send me traversing right in hopes of bailing onto Moscow. There is a cool eagle's nest in the cave to the west, though.
P.S. Ben Kenobi didn't learn his lesson, though, and neither did I; we've both been spending a lot of time in the desert lately... And ironically, we've both been spending a lot time birding. May 31, 2007
rpc
 
rpc  
 
was it really that bad? I admit to doing it a couple years back but don't reacall anything looser than say Moscow next door on it?? An OK upper pitch but nothing like the opening crack of course. May 10, 2007
BenCooper  
 
Climb the first pitch, then rap. The rest of the route is chossy and not fun at all. We were pulling delicately around dinner plate sized rocks for much of it, so we nicknamed it "mutually assured destruction." First pitch is great though. Apr 17, 2007