Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl and Doug Phillips 1995
Page Views: 1,669 total · 24/month
Shared By: Chris D on Sep 10, 2013 with improvements by Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Stroke of Brilliance is incorrectly documented in Alan Watts' Smith Rock Guide, 2nd Ed

This route starts at the 3rd pitch of Super Slab and veers left towards a bolt on the low-angled face. Continue up the slab finding 6 more well spaced bolts along the way and to a crux near the top.

If one follows the current description in the guide they will need cams to 2" and will be climbing a 5.10 crack to reach the slab. The crack is not bolted as described and the first bolt above and to the left of the crack is somewhat useless.

Location

Climb the first pitch of Super Slab. Instead of following the buckets that are P2 of Super Slab, scramble and descend left on an easy third class ledge to a dirty landing and start up the unmistakable and attractive overhanging crack.

Protection

Bolts above the crack. Gear to 3 inches for the crack. The guidebook describes the crack as bolted, but it is not. Protects well with cams.

Photos