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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl and Doug Phillips 1995
Page Views: 1,161 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chris D on Sep 10, 2013 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Stroke of Brilliance is incorrectly documented in Alan Watts' Smith Rock Guide, 2nd Ed

This route starts at the 3rd pitch of Super Slab and veers left towards a bolt on the low-angled face. Continue up the slab finding 6 more well spaced bolts along the way and to a crux near the top.

If one follows the current description in the guide they will need cams to 2" and will be climbing a 5.10 crack to reach the slab. The crack is not bolted as described and the first bolt above and to the left of the crack is somewhat useless.

Location

Climb the first pitch of Super Slab. Instead of following the buckets that are P2 of Super Slab, scramble and descend left on an easy third class ledge to a dirty landing and start up the unmistakable and attractive overhanging crack.

Protection

Bolts above the crack. Gear to 3 inches for the crack. The guidebook describes the crack as bolted, but it is not. Protects well with cams.

Photos

Regarding Richard's comment "From the belay traverse right until under the third bolt of A Stroke of Brilliance" - it should say "left" rather than "right".

Bolts on the 5.7 parts are in the right places. but there is a 20' runout on an easy section. Sep 5, 2016
Sorry but I blew this one. Worst mistake in the entire book. The slab is fantastic. I've soloed it many times. 5.7 - solid and fun. A little heady for a beginner. Traverse into it from the belay nook at third pitch of Super Slab. The direct start is mid-range 5.10. Not great fun. Not sure who did it first. Was done after Sandahl/Phillips bolted the upper slab. Aug 15, 2016
Zach Parsons
Tacoma, WA
Zach Parsons   Tacoma, WA
Starting up the overhanging crack is indeed hard (5.10) - bring a #2 cam for the crack. But it's a solid hand crack and isn't too terrible. What shut me down was pulling over the bulge on sloping, lichen covered holds.

The first bolt placement is rather poor, a standard length quickdraw ends up with the rope biner edge-loaded when fallen on. Suggest bringing an alpine draw to keep this safe. Apr 11, 2016
As noted, climbing the crack to the first bolt definitely isn't 5.8. It requires jamming through a bulge before reaching the bolt. It's fairly safe to the first bolt, but you wouldn't want to blow off hard to your left. I don't remember the climbing naturally pulling me left but that fall wouldn't be good. After clipping the first bolt, the line stays left'ish on the face you are on before a short traverse move right into the final crack of Super Slab to finish the route. Your next bolt isn't always visible, but just keep climbing you'll find it. Feb 24, 2015
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
From the base of the climb to the first bolt is at least 5.10b after that it is a respectable 5.7 climb. It is possible to avoid the start by climbing to the second belay station of Super Slab. From the belay traverse right until under the third bolt of A Stroke of Brilliance. If you use the alternate start, there are two 5.6/5.7 cruxes. The first is located between the third and fourth bolt, 5.6 on mossy rock and the second between the last bolt and the anchor at 5.7. Yes the traverse to the third bolt is runout but so is the rest of the route. Also since you made it to the second Super Slab belay station, it is a better choice to climb the superb Super Slab third pitch then A Stroke of Brilliance. Feb 23, 2015