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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis & Mickey Schurr 1965
Page Views: 11,233 total, 85/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

2 or 3 pitches of moderate cracks up the Red Wall. Good intro to multi pitch trad.

P1 - 5.6 - Begins in a blocky corner, on the far right side of the Red Wall. After 25 ft head striaght up into open book (5.7) or cut left and keep going up untill a nice belay ledge is reached. Belay from medium sized gear.

P2 - 5.6 - Head straight up from belay ledge and take it all the way to the top from here or stop on one of two smaller ledges to belay. At the top theres a 20ft sec of 4 inches.

4th class scramble to the top.

Location

Far right side of Red Wall.

Protection

Small trad rack to 4". Remember its all gear belays.
Isaac
Portland
  5.6
Isaac   Portland
  5.6
Echo Max’s comment regarding the last belay. Just above the OW there is an old cam or something stuck in the wall with some ratty orange sling hanging off. Just below this are several decent cracks where a belay can be setup. A 70m (and maybe even 60) will reach from the first belay with minimal drag. From here, carefully scrabble up the chose and off. Another note; the OW is so low angle I felt plenty safe (even with my #4 at the last belay (du-oh!). I would actually put the “crux” of this route right off the deck. If you are comfortable with the V0 bouldery moves down low, the rest of the climb will be no sweat. Great fun! Oct 17, 2017
Gavin W
Surrey, BC
 
Gavin W   Surrey, BC
 
Took singles of BD C3 0-2, doubles of c4 .4-1, and singles of BD 2-4, along with DMM offsets. The #4 was really nice to have for the top of the last pitch, I just bumped it the whole way up. The "OW" portion was solid fists for me, in keeping with the rating. If you have smaller hands (like my wife) it's more like a 5.7. I recommend doing it in two pitches. First belay ledge is fairly obvious. Second belay ledge is just about the "OW" part. From there, scramble up through a ~5.5 boulder problem (I didn't have any issues doing it in my approach shoes, you can give your second a body belay if they need it) and then walk left and around the second rock band to avoid the chimney and gain the trail. May 20, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great route for practicing traditional anchor skills. Decided against the 4's and had to run out the top for about 20 feet above a wobbly #3 and a questionable #2. Probably best to bring a 4 if 5.6 is your limit. otherwise I found it pretty easy, lots of feet to your left and my big mits fit the crack well. whole route was a great introduction to Smith! Good alternative if Super Slab has a line.
Loved how sustained the climbing was for a 5.6, was recommended by a local. Also, go for the goods on Pitch one... You know what I'm talking about Jun 1, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
A good alternative that better manages communication and loose rock towards the top is to belay at the very end of the final corner. The rock quality in this zone is mostly poor, but there's a small stance/footledge right at the top of the wide crack where the angle rolls over into chossville. If you carefully assess rock quality, you'll find a solid crack that takes finger sized gear.

This option allows for good comms between climbers on the both the wide pitch and the final choss pitch. It also gives the leader less drag on the top-out. (which is nice when wading through choss) Nov 26, 2015
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
  5.6
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
  5.6
Great climb with fun and steep moves littered throughout. Excellent gear placing stances. I brought double rack to 4" and had extras on each pitch.

Good belay ledges with good spots for anchor placement. All gear anchors, no bolts

Had my two 4" cams on my chest for the last pitch from reading the beta and it helped calm my nerves.

Didn't find a great spot to belay up my second on the last pitch, so I continued to the top and set the anchor there. Communication was difficult at this point, so we used the radios.

Good choice for a first trad multi-pitch lead. I'd do it again for sure. Nov 11, 2015
Lan Dogan
Seattle, WA
  5.6
Lan Dogan   Seattle, WA
  5.6
Pushed my #3 as far as I could up the offwidth crack at the top. A #4 camalot would have been appreciated, oh well.

My first real crack climb, and third time leading trad. Top drawer. Jun 3, 2015
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Expect this to keep your attention with lots of moves at the grade if you're at your leading limit. Improbably steep climbing for 5.6, something great on every pitch, and a very "alpine-like" feel, especially the first pitch. Views from the top are spectacular. Bring big gear. Sep 12, 2013
Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
+1 for big gear. Personally, at the top of the third pitch in the wide slab crack my ankles were feeling very tired and I didn't feel like doing the foot and calf mash into the crack. Although it would have made it easier to jam, I went up it using super thin face holds and was quite happy I brought along two #4's (WC Helium Friends) for this balance-y and unexpected end to a route which is mostly short boulder problems and plentiful ledges. May 8, 2013
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
 
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
 
+1 on the lack of bolts, bring your own anchor material! 5-4-2013

Fun route, Sunny in the morning, shady in the early afternoon. The top out is certainly 4th class. I wouldn't recommend topping out without a comfortable pair of shoes for the decent on misery ridge which is fairly easy to find. Head down until you see the trail and work your to a boot path until you reach a ledge. Follow the trail to your right.

Ended up taking 1 #4 and 1 3.5# and it was sufficiently comfortable for my skill level. May 6, 2013
Plaidman
Portland, Oregon
Plaidman   Portland, Oregon
I would concur with the above comment. There are no chain anchors on the route. I brought a #4 Camalot and used it in the wide crack on the 2nd pitch. Two would be over kill I think. I also found a red tricam placement on the right high on the wall above the wide crack just before the finish at the top pitch 2. Tricams are the bomb at Smith in some of the pockets.

Awesome route. Just finished it with my new partner. We topped out just as the light dimmmed into nothingness. The walk off was fairly easy to find. It wanders to the left. As it starts to dip down look for a cairn on a ledge to show the way up to the correct trail. May 7, 2010
mebbing
Bend, Oregon
mebbing   Bend, Oregon
Fun climb. Fun, steep 5.6. Nice shady escape in the late afternoon.

quick note: Ron Horton's 2006 Weekend Rock Oregon guide book notes chain anchors at the top of each pitch. Not so much. (at least we never saw them - and no other book, or this web page, say anything about chain anchors) I thought it was a lot of fun to top out after 3 pitches, but would say bring your trail shoes or sandals, as it's quite the little hike down on the trail back to the base.

Also, at the top of the 3rd pitch, the wide crack up steep slab (25 feet?) takes mostly just #4 Camalots (#3 was a little to small) - if you aren't especially comfortable on 5.6 wide crack, you may want to make sure you have at least one or two #4's to protect it. Jun 17, 2008