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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bill Ramsey, Alan Watts 1978
Page Views: 1,187 total, 8/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short but fun route located on the far left side of Red Wall. Look for a large gully that separates Picnic Lunch Wall from Red Wall. Just right of this gully, there's a ledge system 15-20 feet above ground (accessible near its left side via 4th class "chimney") that runs along the base of the Red Wall. Bill's Flake follows a circular, 40-foot flake attached to main wall atop the ledge system.

Scramble up to the ledge system (class 4). Move up a short, left facing dihedral below the flake. Traverse left on perfect rock via hand jams and underclings (10-). Move up and follow left side of flake up and right to bolted anchor.

Protection

Cams from #.75 to #3 Camalot. Optional #3.5 Camalot.

Photos

Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Fun climb, looks hard but I can see why it's a 10a Apr 11, 2016
stj
 
stj  
 
Very good quality rock, moves and protection. It's just a bit short. Seldom climbed, but well worth it. May 2, 2011
mark d
 
mark d  
 
this is a cool little pitch. if it was a 100ft, it would be four stars.

Mar 20, 2006