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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Bauman
Page Views: 5,022 total, 52/month
Shared By: ferrells on Dec 20, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


139 Opinions

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Description

Chouinard's Crack is one of the best splitters in the Park. There's not much more to say about it -expect really fun, straightforward fingers and thin hands crack climbing with solid gear.
If you want to spoil it, finish off with the rest of Peking, but for a great outing, finish up on Moscow.

Location

Hike across the bridge, and straight up the Misery Ridge trail. Pass the right side of Picnic Lunch Wall, and most of Red Wall, while hiking uphill. It screams to you from the trail as you come to the last section of climbing on the Red Wall.
Tell tale signs that you are in the right place are a couple of big blocks to chill on at the base, a chalked up, left leading hand traverse leading to the crack, and the obvious, clean, and inviting crack system to the right (Moscow).

Protection

Gear from fingers to hands. If you want to stitch it up, you might be able to wiggle in a blue camalot towards the top, but I bet a no. 2 (hand size) is as big as the crack will allow.

Photos

ska75
  5.9
ska75  
  5.9
Hello guys,

This is a great route. Beautiful crack

Here a beta video I put together.

youtube.com/watch?v=WqKzomY…

Enjoy it!! Sep 13, 2017
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.9
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.9
Rating for the first pitch only - never did the second. Excellent crack climbing, especially for Smith, sustained and harder than the 5.8 rating imho Jun 17, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
If only this climb were twice as long, it would be a clear cut 4 star classic. Still good fun though. Oct 16, 2014
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8
I agree with Nate B. - with respect to the fallen climber, this climb can be well protected and an injury causing fall is unlikely.

Solid jams and good rest stances pepper the route. Wish it were longer. Sep 23, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
You should be able to protect above your head at the start of the vertical section. My condolences to the injured, but there is no reason to fall to the ledge 15+ feet below with an attentive belay and intelligent gear placement.

For me, the route was a one-move wonder. A solid jam leads to endless foot options. And then it's over. Sep 22, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.9
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.9
My partner blew the crux sequence and ended up falling and hitting his ankle on the ledge to the climber's left of the vertical crack section. He had to hobble out on crutches. Be very careful climbing this route because a fall can be unforgiving. May 27, 2014
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Grade on this is probably hand size dependent, those with smaller hands might have absurdly solid jams the whole way and would call it 5.8, those with larger hands (like myself) who had to use thin hands and finger stacks would call it 5.9.
I think compared with other climbs around Smith, Watts made the right call and as that is the published grade MP should reflect it. May 5, 2014
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Polished!

What a fun climb. The business is over after just a couple of jams off the blocks as plentiful and solid holds present themselves on the left face. Great little climb, but over too soon. Sep 15, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Nice line that presents varied crack technique. Only wish it were longer. Either rap or continue on Moscow. Aug 4, 2012
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
  5.9
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
  5.9
Nice crack, but just a little too short. Aug 3, 2010
ferrells  
 
Au contraire, Watts called this pitch 5.9 in his new guide. I don't think it particularly matters, but I changed the grade to 5.8. Feb 21, 2010
berl
Seattle
berl   Seattle
also, peking is rated 5.8 here on MP and everywhere else. Jan 7, 2010
hemp22  
This is also frequently known as the first half-pitch of Peking. Dec 22, 2009