All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (u) Red Wall

Gulag Archipelago

Name: Gulag Archipelago
Rating: 3.7

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in (u) Red Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Helter Skelter Direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ride The Lightning S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 380 ft (115 m), 4 pitches
FA:	Jeff Frizzel, Jim Ablao
Page Views:	8,632 total · 45/month
Shared By:	Jim Ablao on Aug 10, 2009
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

1st pitch crux comes low(11a). 2nd pitch (11c/d) enjoyable moves on nice rock stays with you to the ledge. 3rd pitch waterstreak has 10d move at bulge. The 4th(9) climbs big holds to the top. Scramble into left gully to rap from pitch 4 or descend misery Ridge.
Over-all a fun climb on good rock with great position.

Location

NE face of Red Wall. uphill left of Helter Skelter, downhill left of Super Slab
Descent: Continue up and use misery Ridge trail-OR-From top, Scramble down gully left to sneak the 3rd pitch anchor to begin rappels.
1. Rap to base of water streak anchor(pitch 2)
2. Rap to ground using 2 ROPES.