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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 380 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jeff Frizzel, Jim Ablao
Page Views: 3,383 total, 34/month
Shared By: Jim Ablao on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

1st pitch crux comes low(11a). 2nd pitch (11c/d) enjoyable moves on nice rock stays with you to the ledge. 3rd pitch waterstreak has 10d move at bulge. The 4th(9) climbs big holds to the top. Scramble into left gully to rap from pitch 4 or descend misery Ridge.
Over-all a fun climb on good rock with great position.

Location

NE face of Red Wall. uphill left of Helter Skelter, downhill left of Super Slab
Descent: Continue up and use misery Ridge trail-OR-From top, Scramble down gully left to sneak the 3rd pitch anchor to begin rappels.
1. Rap to base of water streak anchor(pitch 2)
2. Rap to ground using 2 ROPES.

Protection

Bolts
See: Smithrock.com for downloadable topo

Photos

Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
Amazing route. Its possible to skip the crux bulge on the third pitch by traversing right onto easier (5.8) terrain and skipping the next bolt (obviously this creates a decent runout). Sep 7, 2016
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Between the 1st and 2nd bolts on the 4th pitch theres a pretty decent sized loose block. Its about 3 feet right of the bolt line and looks like a good foot. I wanted to trundle it, but it was definitely too busy at the park. Be careful climbing past it... Apr 22, 2015
MorganH
  5.11b PG13
MorganH  
  5.11b PG13
I thought this was one of the best routes I've been on at Smith! Just after the crux bulge on the 3rd pitch, there are some loose flakes. I would second the recommendation to link the 3rd and 4th pitches, but there would be some ledge fall potential from the crumbly stuff on the last pitch if you whipped. I thought the 3rd pitch, although easier, was absolutely brilliant and not to be missed. Apr 22, 2013
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Great route! Second pitch is probably one of the top three pitches at the grade on the tuff... (IMO) super good rock quality. Third and fourth are easily linked and probably should be. Additionally, they're not nearly as high-quality as the first two and only worth doing if you're set on getting your merit badge for doing the whole thing. Also, I've rapped this with one 70m rope. You have to do a short, mellow down-climb to the ground in the amphitheater right of Super Slab, but it's not too bad. Apr 13, 2011
Jim Ablao  
 
Yes Ferells, thanks for the spell-check. Glad you enjoyed the route. Cheers Jul 14, 2010
ferrells
  5.11c
ferrells  
  5.11c
Is this the correct name for the route? I thought it was Archipelago, and would ignore the spelling above, but I think you are the guy that did the FA. Mar 7, 2010
ferrells
  5.11c
ferrells  
  5.11c
Amazing route. 11b, 11c, 11b, .9. Well bolted, great rock on the first three pitches, beautiful views, and fun moves. One of my favorite days at Smith so far. Nov 8, 2009
Jeff Siefman
Portland Oregon
Jeff Siefman   Portland Oregon
Super fun route! Perhaps some of the most fun to be had! Watch the choss on pitch 4! Aug 13, 2009