Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Olsen, Colley, 1989
Page Views: 5,915 total · 48/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 25, 2010
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.

Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above. It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.

Location

Start as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.

If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?

Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.

Don't try to rappel this route.

Protection

Ten bolts or so with bolt anchors.

Photos