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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Olsen, Colley, 1989
Page Views: 2,531 total, 28/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 25, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Long, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.

Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above. It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.

Location

Start as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.

If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?

Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.

Don't try to rappel this route.

Protection

Ten bolts or so with bolt anchors.

Photos

Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Why was this upgraded? Always seemed straightforward as 10b. Mar 2, 2015
Aaron Nash
North Bend, WA
 
Aaron Nash   North Bend, WA
 
Link this with the top two pitches of Titanium Jag for a fantastic climb. Much better than the other sport pitch above this one May 27, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10c
The "walk-off" is sh!t... unprotected, with certain horrendous injury in case of a slip. To put it in perspective, it's a right hand jam/lay back, with a really high left foot over a 20-foot ramp leading down into a precipitous gully that ends 200 feet below. Rap Super Slab: two ropes, or 70m and downclimb.

This single pitch is great, but would agree that there are a million other climbs like it. Fun, sustained, high quality.

The approach is simple and straightforward. Definitely not 5.6; more like 5.2. May 1, 2012
I managed a rap off a 60m. It was close, but with rope stretch you can make it to the bottom. Jan 30, 2012
hotlum
Bend, Oregon
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
Really good. Use slings on third and fourth bolts to reduce drag for the hard move up top. Oct 22, 2011
BSwett
Bend, Or.
 
BSwett   Bend, Or.
 
I disagree that there are fifty other climbs with the same moves at Smith. Just the type of rock alone, makes it quite unique. Beautiful climb. But yes, if you can, go for the second pitch as well. May 31, 2011
stj
 
stj  
 
I like technical Smith edges, so I think this first pitch is higher quality than Orgasmaphoria (the second pitch, which is cool and long but less sustained). You can rap off the first pitch with a 60m rope to the grassy starting ledge, or 70m puts you on the ground. May 2, 2011