Avg: 3.2 from 60 votes
Routes in (u) Red Wall
|A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Olsen, Colley, 1989|
|Page Views:||2,531 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||ferrells on Jun 25, 2010|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionLong, technical series of edges, most of which are rounded. There's a couple of cool bulges. Personally, I like this route because it gives you the opportunity to climb Orgasmaphoria. Together, they make for a fun lazy afternoon on a long route with good rock, position, and bolts. By itself, I'd say that you could do these exact moves on any of fifty other routes at Smith. For those uninitiated to Smith, or who never tire of rounded, technical tuff edges, this won't be a problem.
Again, as long as you are doing this one, you should finish with the Orgasmaphoria pitch above. It turns a good one-pitch route into a special two pitch route.
LocationStart as for Finger Puppet, a goofy little 5.10a on left side of Red Wall, but head right at the third bolt or so. Finger Puppet, and this route, start on top of a ledge gained by doing a 3-4 meter 5.6 corner with multiple cracks. Thirty or forty feet left of Dances With Clams.
If you do this pitch alone, I bet you could rap with a 60m, but I'm not sure. Sorry. If someone knows, would you comment below?
Because we linked this with Orgasmaphoria, we brought shoes to walk off down Misery Ridge: Above the anchors, drop down to a little gully; climb the greasy 5.7 crack (some people actually lead this with gear - set of nuts); gain the ridge, and hike down. Alternatively, you can rappel Super Slab.
Don't try to rappel this route.