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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Tom Heins, Pete Keane, 1991
Page Views: 2,778 total · 19/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Given 10a in the 92 Watt's guide, this route has continued to lose some holds since then, and is a bit harder now. Overall, the rock on the route now feels pretty solid. Wide edge moves lead to a tricky overhung finish on pockets and edges just before the anchors.

Location

On a short pillar just off the Misery Ridge/Red Wall trail, below Bill's Flake. The route on the right side of the pillar.

Protection

Bolts (aprox. 4). Rap anchors.

Photos

Ryan Bowen
Bend, Or
  5.10a/b
Ryan Bowen   Bend, Or
  5.10a/b
The jug for clipping the first bolt is very hollow. I could feel it flexing as I was reaching for the hanger. Aug 11, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.10-
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.10-
Fingers and toes sore from nubbins? Brain fried from run outs? This is a great gym style sport route is pretty refreshing. Apr 17, 2017
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Gym climb, in the best possible sense. One of those routes that is worth running laps on, if no ones in line Apr 11, 2016
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
  5.10a
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
  5.10a
Still 10a despite any "missing holds" but is a great warmup romp on this wall. Jul 25, 2013
T Banch
Aspen, CO
  5.10a
T Banch   Aspen, CO
  5.10a
Definitely a little short but still totally worth doing! Plenty of fun moves. Crux comes right past the last bolt, and right past the overhang, which made it feel totally safe. I felt more comfortable leading this route than some slabby routes of an easier grade. BETA WARNING: A few people I've talked to missed the finishing jug and just grabbed the chains. It's up and left of the anchor. May 28, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
65 feet? LAWL!!! More like 40. May 3, 2012
Climbed this route on Saturday skipping the bolts and placing natural gear. Makes for a fun gear pitch, too bad the bolts are already there :-(

Gear beta. Micro brass nut down low (sort of useless once you get going. ) Slight run-out to the side-pull flake where 2x Green C3s go in, these cams are not great but you can double them up and feel sort of good about it. Climb below bulge and stick bomber #2 BD in the horizontal and go to the anchors.

-Nate Mar 29, 2010
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.10-
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.10-
This route is fun jug climbing to a somewhat hard move right below the chains. Oct 14, 2008
grizz Burton
  5.10b
grizz Burton  
  5.10b
Fun route that I found to be somewhat tricky to start and finish. Jugs through the middle. I'd give it 3 stars if it were a little longer. May 12, 2008

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