Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wayne Haack, Steve Thompson 1975
Page Views: 416 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This rarely climbed route sits just uphill from Moscow and is a good alternative if that route is busy. The rock appears atrocious at first, but with good stemming and jamming technique most of the choss is avoidable, and becomes cleaner higher up.

P1: Start up the loose corner, using both cracks to stem around a bulge. Continue on better rock with multiple cracks in the corner to a section of easier rock, to a belay around the corner to the right.

P2: Follow wide cracks up the right-facing corner. The rock is great on this pitch but still has some lichen. Belay at the top of the corner on a large shelf.

Step left to the top of Moscow and follow 4th class up for 50 feet to a great perch at the top of the Red Wall. Put on sneakers and walk up to the Misery Ridge trail.

Location

The next corner system uphill from Moscow. Scramble up and right around Breakdown in Paradise (bolted 5.10) on a loose trail to the starting perch on the left.

Protection

Standard rack, possible doubles in hand sizes, at least one #4. A second #4 or a #5 wouldn't go to waste on the second pitch. Helmets.

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Climbed this route on 04/21/18 because Moscow was busy. I agree, it doesn't get much traffic. P1 is not so great. The bulge isn't that hard, but it doesn't protect very well because rock is choss to the left side. Run P1 out all the way out to the slab corner. P2 was like a miniature version of the off-width you get on Moscow (in length). P2 could definitely use a #5 camalot. I only had a #4 and made it work. Apr 27, 2018