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Routes in (u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Animal Farm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Helter Skelter Direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Incognito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Iron Curtain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orgasmophoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Peking T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ride The Lightning S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.3696, -121.13916 |
| FA: | Wayne Haack, Steve Thompson 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,795 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Piarulli on Jul 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This rarely climbed route sits just uphill from Moscow and is a good alternative if that route is busy. The rock appears atrocious at first, but with good stemming and jamming technique most of the choss is avoidable, and becomes cleaner higher up.
P1: Start up the loose corner, using both cracks to stem around a bulge. Continue on better rock with multiple cracks in the corner to a section of easier rock, to a belay around the corner to the right.
P2: Follow wide cracks up the right-facing corner. The rock is great on this pitch but still has some lichen. Belay at the top of the corner on a large shelf.
Step left to the top of Moscow and follow 4th class up for 50 feet to a great perch at the top of the Red Wall. Put on sneakers and walk up to the Misery Ridge trail.
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