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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burma Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wayne Haack, Steve Thompson 1975
Page Views: 349 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on Jul 27, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This rarely climbed route sits just uphill from Moscow and is a good alternative if that route is busy. The rock appears atrocious at first, but with good stemming and jamming technique most of the choss is avoidable, and becomes cleaner higher up.

P1: Start up the loose corner, using both cracks to stem around a bulge. Continue on better rock with multiple cracks in the corner to a section of easier rock, to a belay around the corner to the right.

P2: Follow wide cracks up the right-facing corner. The rock is great on this pitch but still has some lichen. Belay at the top of the corner on a large shelf.

Step left to the top of Moscow and follow 4th class up for 50 feet to a great perch at the top of the Red Wall. Put on sneakers and walk up to the Misery Ridge trail.

Location

The next corner system uphill from Moscow. Scramble up and right around Breakdown in Paradise (bolted 5.10) on a loose trail to the starting perch on the left.

Protection

Standard rack, possible doubles in hand sizes, at least one #4. A second #4 or a #5 wouldn't go to waste on the second pitch. Helmets.

Photos

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Climbed this route on 04/21/18 because Moscow was busy. I agree, it doesn't get much traffic. P1 is not so great. The bulge isn't that hard, but it doesn't protect very well because rock is choss to the left side. Run P1 out all the way out to the slab corner. P2 was like a miniature version of the off-width you get on Moscow (in length). P2 could definitely use a #5 camalot. I only had a #4 and made it work. Apr 27, 2018

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