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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Eagan Mike Paulson 1988
Page Views: 2,319 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

Great movement on small crisp edges make this an enjoyable route if your comfortable on slightly spicy 10.b

Carefully make your way up to the first bolt (a fall would be ugly) then crimp your way up good edges to an anchor next to the anchor on Peking

Location

Just left of the crack on pitch one of Peking, two routes over from Moscow.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10b
Perhaps a bolt has been added at the beginning, but the only bad fall now would be clipping the 2nd bolt, which is made from a good stance on good holds. Sep 22, 2014
Four stars for sure. Best 10b at smith? Super smithy. Thin,delicate and engaging. Apr 10, 2014
mark pride
Austin, Texas
mark pride   Austin, Texas
Fun route on some small crimps, with a good rest spot midway up. One of my favorite 10b's at Smith. Oct 10, 2012
spicy, excellent Jun 17, 2012
Great moves on sound tuff. Not so great protection through the first thin crux off the ground. Over-all awesome route! Not recommended for the budding 5.10 without stick clipping but can be TR'd from Peking. Jan 4, 2012
bryans
 
bryans  
 
i agree with bryson's description. not a great choice for someone's first 10b due to the hard moves over a terrible landing just to reach the first bolt. but that memory is quickly erased by the cerebral and sustained climbing that follows. one of the best 10b sport climbs at smith. Jun 20, 2006