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Routes in (u) Red Wall

A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphetamine Grip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Animal Farm S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bay of Pigs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bill's Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakdown in Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Commie Pinkos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dances with Clams S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dirty Pinkos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Puppet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers of Fate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gulag Archipelago S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Havana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Almost Died T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lets Face It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moscow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Orgasmophoria S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Papillion S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Art S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ride The Lightning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight Outta' Peking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Titanium Jag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,316 total, 9/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on May 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

An unusual route that starts with easier moves on an aesthetic, highly pocketed wall before hitting a crux sequence about 3/4s up on edges. The crux feels a bit contrived because the bolting tries to force you into harder terrain when an easier sequence is a bit off to the side but has a pendulum fall risk as a deterrent.

Location

Just right of the start of Moscow.

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchors.

Photos

Phildlm
  5.10b
Phildlm  
  5.10b
This route seems to get a bad rap. My son and I onsighted it, and we're 5.10+/5.11- climbers. This is nowhere near an .11 route. We both agreed it was a reasonable 5.10b. Granted we stayed right of the bolt line for the first 10 feet, but hey as long as you can clip the bolts then you're still on route - no need to make it artificially harder than it needs to be. There are a few delicate moves, but if you have the reach you can easily bypass any single hard move. It was over before I knew it. Fun little pitch. Didn't find any issues with the anchors. Oct 10, 2016
George W
  5.10b/c
George W  
  5.10b/c
It's kinda fun. You get spoiled on good/easy holds until the 3rd/4th bolt. If you ascend the bolt line and grab the nice big undercling for the 5th clip then it's definitely a thin .10b/c move. Push the bush and trust your feet!
If you get sucked under the little roof, it's difficult to make the move out. If you follow holds left and skip the buggy undercling, followed by a juggy traverse to the chains, then it goes as an easy(ish) .10. Risk of undesirable little pendulum if you do that though. Anyone who top ropes it will naturally follow the chalked up and easier variation left, which I consider a .10a. People have busted their knees going left of the bolt line on lead because they don't fall well and it's all sub-90ยบ (aka: cheese grater). Oct 7, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.11-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.11-
As the edges get worn off the rock from repeated ascents this climb seems to get harder. The crux is short but the moves are definitely pushing the 5.11- grade. Apr 29, 2016
Completely agree with Jcweinsx. The third bolt hanger was not confidence inspiring, and the anchors were bizarre. Be prepared to choose between (a) rapping off a single bizarro eye bolt, (b) threading your rope through that and hanger (which can't be good for the rope or hanger...), or (c) leaving a 'biner on the hanger. My follow chose the final option, but I wouldn't bet on it still being there. Mar 29, 2015
another Chad  
 
This route looks like it would be fun but climbs like crap. Following the bolts slavishly felt like 5.11a to me.

1) Bolts don't follow the logical line-of-least-resistance.

2) Anchor is subpar (see other comments).

3) Straight up or staying left, the climbing is not fun.

Chad Jun 18, 2014
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.10c
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.10c
Several of the bolts spin. Some have crappy hangers that are hard to clip. Anchor bolts are funky 1 fat rap hanger and 1 snag your rope weird ass small triangular eye bolt. Feels like the bolting hardware was bought at a flea market. Bolt spacing is good, except for crux. Spacing is fine if you go the hard way straight up or marginal if you go left and high. Jun 18, 2014
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
This route shouldn't be underestimated. It feels like 5.11 if you follow the bolts. If you go out left you are looking at a real pendulum and I've seen people hurt from taking that fall. NOT for the shaky 5.10 leader. Jul 25, 2013
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.10d
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.10d
From what I've gathered, the bolt that forces you into the harder terrain is a recent addition of the past few years. The 10b grade is for climbing to the left of the bolt line up high, despite the pendulum risk. Definitely considerably harder (5.11 most likely) if you go straight up.

What a crappy route. Oct 17, 2011
DWech
Fort Collins
  5.10c
DWech   Fort Collins
  5.10c
Agree with Ybarra, and I'm probably one of those 'routinely spit off' (hey, I made the new guidebook!). The rating on this route changes quite a bit depending on how you attack it, but journeying back to the bolts keeps it mid-10. Aug 30, 2010
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
New guide book says this routinely spits off people expecting a cruise. I went slightly right of the bolt line following some chalked crimps and polished tiny feet. Felt full-on 5.11. Jul 26, 2010